Friday, December 30, 2005

Top 5 For 2005

We asked more than 1,300 loyal readers of the Tripso forums to help us forecast the “hip” and “in” places for 2006. Here are the results.

  1. Vegas, baby! Vegas is a perennial favorite, offering something for every adult. A few years back, Vegas tried to promote itself as a family resort, and … well, let’s be nice and just say it failed miserably. Today’s Vegas is the Vegas of yesteryear with some fantastic new resorts like Wynn Las Vegas, a great show by Elton John called “The Red Piano” at Caesar’s Palace, and a new resort and casino called Las Ramblas (set to open in 2008) from the latest incarnation of the Rat Pack: Jorge Perez, George Clooney, Rande Gerber and Jim Stuart.

  2. Central America. Central America is a favorite with our readers, especially Guatemala and Costa Rica. As Ned, one of our Gold Posters said, “Both Costa Rica and Guatemala could become hot spots now. People are looking for something different these days. Both these countries have some fantastic places to visit, especially Guatemala. It appears as though Guatemala is pretty safe again (although it’s always good to be wary when traveling anywhere these days), which opens it up. Both Tikal and Chichicastenango (the entire Lake Atitlan area) are real travel highlights.” Outstanding advice, Ned!

  3. Southern Caribbean. One of the most interesting cruise itineraries is the “Southern Route,” which gives travelers a taste of the real Caribbean with visits to islands like Aruba, Barbados, St. Lucia and St. Kitts, among others. While popular with the cruise lines, these islands also make for a wonderful land-based vacation. Aruba has the cooling trade winds and could use a little help with its tourism. (Note to our readers: Don’t boycott Aruba. It is really a gem.) Barbados is home to some of the friendliest people you will find anywhere, and their famous flying fish are nothing short of mesmerizing.

  4. New York City. The Big Apple is coming back into its own after the terrorist attacks of 2001. They say that the city never sleeps, and that’s true — there’s just too much going on for much shut-eye. From the lights of Broadway, to the majesty of Lady Liberty in New York Harbor, to the hustle and bustle of Wall Street, to the beatnik personality of Greenwich Village, New York City will not disappoint.

  5. Vietnam. This is a tough one to explain, but Vietnam certainly is big on the Tripso forums. One of our newer members, Kykate, chimed in, “I’m voting for Vietnam. I’ve been there three times in the past 12 months, and enjoy it better with every trip. There are great beaches, low-cost shopping, friendly people and a lot of little villages and towns to explore. The food is good, but not gourmet, in most places. With United’s direct service to Saigon/Ho Chi Minh City, it is easy to get there and back.”

Kykate’s sentiments were echoed by another new member, Nobody 122: “I definitely have to agree with this — amazing country, people are some of the most friendly on Earth (ranking right up there with Thais, Australians and Philippinos (sic)), and the idea that a luxury 5-star resort costs about what a Red Roof would in the U.S. makes it all the more compelling.”

My top pick did not make the list: New Orleans and the Gulf Coast. We all know of the devastation from Hurricane Katrina, and right now these areas need a huge boost from tourism. The government is doing what it can, but it’s up to us to support the Gulf Coast economy by spending some money. I know I will be there in February. Laissez les bons temps rouler!

So, there you have it! A few weeks ago, we highlighted the Top 5 Kid Picks for travel and now you have the top picks of the road warriors from Tripso. Here’s wishing everyone a safe and happy 2006!

Monday, December 26, 2005

Are You The Client From Hell-- Part 2?

Has your travel agent seemed a little on edge with you lately? Have you noticed a change in tone when he talks to you? Are you becoming more and more intimate with his voice mail? You could be turning into the client from hell. Relax. There is still time to reclaim your status as a nice person.

As New Year’s approaches, let me remind you of five simple rules for the care and feeding of me, your travel agent. The result can be a much-improved partnership that will serve us both well in 2006.

Be respectful of my time. I am a professional travel agent, and my time is every bit as important as your time. Please keep this in mind when you call to ask for help. Yes, I will go out of my way to help you, but I do have other clients — some of whom may have (sorry to say) priority at the moment. I need to prioritize my work so I can deliver knockout service to each client in the long run. You wouldn’t waste your doctor’s time, would you?

Be honest with me. If you have already booked that vacation and are just trying to keep your regular agent honest (or are just checking your own surfing skills), please let me know. I’m not saying that I won’t help you, but I would rather know up front that I don’t have a chance at a sale. I’ll still work with you, because I know I might have a shot at your next trip. But when I sit down to help you, please remember my first point.

Remember that kindergarten math lesson. Apples belong with apples and oranges belong with oranges. There is nothing more frustrating than being asked to investigate one option only to be told later that you got it cheaper elsewhere — but what you got isn’t even remotely what you originally asked for. When you say you want to leave from Baltimore and go to Fort Lauderdale, I will research flights leaving from Baltimore, Washington and Dulles Airports for you as well flights arriving to Fort Lauderdale, Palm Beach and Miami. Boston isn’t an option I would normally consider, and neither is Tampa. Yes, you may find the fare to be less expensive for the Boston-to-Tampa route, but that is not what you asked me to investigate. So please define your terms clearly.

Have an idea about what you want. It is very difficult to help someone who cannot even begin to make up his mind. Please do not be the ice-cream lover who must sample all 31 flavors. If you come to me looking for pricing on a family vacation to Alaska, the Caribbean, Europe or the Pocono Mountains, chances are that I am not going to take your request too seriously. Now, if you are trying to decide between Alaska and the Caribbean in the summer, we can talk.

Be realistic. Inevitably, the question is going to come up, “What is your budget?” Believe it or not, I am not looking to empty your wallet. This is a critical question that needs an honest answer before I can design your trip. You need to have an idea of what to expect for your hard-earned dollars. I will not be able to find a week at Disney World for your family of four that includes air fares, character breakfasts, Park Hopper passes, a personal meeting with Walt, and lodging in the Grand Floridian - all for $1,999. That is simply not going to happen. But I might be able to get you into an off-resort property (sorry, Walt still won’t be joining you). I am not being nosy when I ask about your budget, and remember, you always have the final say.

Do you see yourself here? Be honest. Most travel agents are genuinely nice people who have specialized in this ever-changing and complex field. Your travel agent will work hard with you, but if you morph into the client from hell, be prepared. You might be the one getting a pink slip.

Friday, December 23, 2005

Dare To Dream: Climbing Kilimanjaro

It all started in Sacramento on October 30, 2003, when a great friend and I witnessed (the word “saw” just doesn’t do it justice) the IMAX film Kilimanjaro: To the Roof of Africa. After that experience, I realized that someday I had to climb that mountain. With a little luck and a new exercise regimen, this dream will come true for me in the summer of 2006.

The snowy peak of Mount Kilimanjaro rises majestically above the gently rolling hills and plateaus of northern Tanzania, its slopes shimmering above the rising clouds. The mountain’s ecosystems are as beautiful as they are varied: five distinct climate zones from the base of the mountain to the summit. The thick lowland forest that covers the lower portions of the mountain breaks into lush meadows as the air begins to thin out. Closer to the summit, the landscape is a barren expanse of rocks and ice. From here, the view of Africa stretched out below you is breathtaking.

Hiking on the “Rooftop of Africa” — at 19,340 feet, it is the highest point on the continent — is the adventure of a lifetime. Provided the trek is well paced, everyone from seasoned trekkers to first-time enthusiasts can scale Kilimanjaro all the way to her snowy peak. But if you are to experience this thrill, you need to go soon. Scientists warn that global warming may eliminate the snowcap in as few as 10 years. Once this happens, our planet will have lost another natural wonder, just as we lost the Yangtze River in China.

“Kilimanjaro: To the Roof of Africa” was perhaps the most moving movie I have ever seen, and I want to literally trek in the footsteps of filmmaker David Breashears. After a little research I found I could do that with an outfit that Breashears himself endorses: Thomson Safaris, based in Watertown, Mass. Their nine-day “Western Breach Route” follows the route taken by Breashears and his crew when they filmed the movie.

Come along and dream with me.

Day 1. After a hearty breakfast and a briefing, we’ll head to the Londorossi Gate (elevation: 5,900 feet) to begin the day’s four-hour climb. This first trekking day is through dense rainforest (it receives an average of 80 inches of precipitation a year) under a tangled canopy of moss-coated vines, which are home to black-and-white colobus monkeys, blue monkeys, and a vibrant array of exotic birds. When we reach camp, in the lower heather belt, we get a hot dinner in the mess tent. This night is spent at Forest Camp, at 9,500 feet.

Day 2. Once out of the forest, we’ll take a steep track into a savannah of tall grasses, heather and volcanic rock draped with lichen beards. We’ll climb through the lush rolling hills below the Shira Plateau, finally reaching camp at the edge of the plateau after six hours on the trail. The view of Kilimanjaro from across the plateau is amazing. We’ll bunk down at Shira 1 Camp, at 12,200 feet.

Day 3. Our third day is a full four hours of hiking but not too much climbing, so there is time to fully explore the Shira Plateau. Shira is one of the highest plateaus on earth, with an average elevation of 12,500 feet. We trek east toward Kilimanjaro’s glaciated peak, finally arriving at Shira 2 Camp, at 12,600 feet.

Day 4. After breakfast we’ll head out on a four-hour hike across the Shira Ridge en route to Moir Camp. The camp is nestled below a large bluff surrounded by cliffs in the upper heather zone at 13,800 feet.

Day 5. Day 5 will be a difficult day as we proceed steadily upward over expansive ridgelines of high desert to our camp, which is set in a striking spot at the base of Lava Tower (yes, Kilimanjaro is a volcano). If any energy remains, I might test my ardor by climbing to the top of Lava Tower for some of the most spectacular panoramas on the trek. Day 5 has us sleeping at Lava Tower Camp, at 15,100 feet.

Day 6. Today we get a taste of a mountain range with freezing temperatures and snow squalls. The trek is only two hours to Arrow Glacier Camp, but we will have climbed another thousand feet. All that remains here of the Arrow Glacier and Little Breach Glacier are some snow patches and terminal moraine, but nowhere on the mountain is there a more spectacular view of the Western Breach headwall, which glows red in the setting sun.

Day 7. This is the roughest hiking day: eight solid hours in frigid terrain. We will be on our way by 6 a.m. and will climb to our next station at 18,750 feet, spending the night at Crater Camp. The camp is set in the wide crater of Kilimanjaro’s summit, in an arctic moonscape.

Day 8. This is the culmination of the trek, the last 600 feet to Uhuru Peak, at 19,340 feet. This is the reason people climb mountains: the sheer wonder and exhilaration of being up so high, with the world spread out below you. After spending some time at the top of Africa, we’ll start back down. Over the course of the afternoon, we will descend nearly 10,000 feet. We’ll spend the night at Mweka Camp, at 11,000 feet.

Day 9. We’ll finish our descent with a two- to three-hour hike through the rainforest to the Mweka Gate, where we will be met and returned to the lodge for a much-needed shower and some merry convalescence.

Make no mistake, this is not your average vacation. There are no beaches, no umbrella drinks, no cathedrals, no theme parks, no king-size beds and no in-room bar. While some may consider a roadside motel roughing it, this trip gives you the real deal. You do need to be in reasonable shape to be able to withstand the changes in altitude, and you will need to keep pushing yourself further and harder, but the rewards are substantial.

Very few people get to realize their dreams, but this summer I will. Hmm … I wonder what my friend from Sacramento is doing for two weeks in July.

Monday, December 12, 2005

Dear Mr. Airline CEO

Well, fellas, you still don’t get it, do you? Last year, I offered several suggestions to help you turn your struggling airline industry around. They might have worked. One will never know, because you didn’t try any of them. Here we are, a year later, and nothing much has changed.

Oh, wait! Something has changed. Last year at this time, there were two of you operating under the cozy protection of bankruptcy. This year, those two have slid over and made room for two more. Let’s see, that means 67 percent of the major domestic carriers are now operating under bankruptcy protection.

Let’s take a walk down Memory Lane and recall the letter I wrote to you on November 29, 2004. My 2005 observations are in brackets.

Dear Gerard, Gerald, Glenn, Gordon, Douglas, and Bruce,

As we approach the holiday season, I want to wish you all a wonderful holiday and extend my most sincere wishes for your survival. I realize that the past several years have stressed you out in the ivory towers and I am afraid that you may have lost sight of the big picture.

So as a favor — call this an early Christmas present — I’ll help you put the big picture into perspective.

You fly planes. You are not in the direct-to-consumer sales business. You have a ready, willing and able sales force to handle your distribution. Remember travel agents? Carlson Wagonlit? American Express? ASTA? Home-based? The thousands upon thousands of independents? Orbitz? Travelocity? Expedia?

Just pay them something for the effort and they will reward you with full flights and, what’s more, customer service. America West has done it and the last time I checked, their balance sheet was fairly healthy. [Bruce, you may finally be out of the woods. Make sure Doug Parker is on your Christmas card list!] Besides, travel agents have already demonstrated that they are survivors. They’re still here despite your best efforts.

You are not in the restaurant business. Stop trying to convince your passengers that you are. Your catered food, when available, is horrible, and the real restaurants have plenty of options in the airports. Save your meals for the really long flights, save some money and offer some prepackaged snacks. Sit down, shut up and eat your peanuts.

You are not the mafia. Stop acting like it. People are willing to pay you good money to use your planes. Stop trying to extort more money from them with fee upon fee upon fee. You are not charged a penny when you return to a retail store for a price accommodation because your goods were just put on sale. Why do you think it is fair for you to do this to your customers? [And Doug S., passing on the PFCs really is a fare increase. Let’s call a spade a spade.]

If you want to operate a cartel, why not just shake everyone down at the gate and collect all their loose change? But be careful, a horse head in the bed is worse than cabin lights coming on after a red-eye.

You are not in the cruise business or the hotel business. Stop trying to meddle in that market. If you guys could get your own house in order, I might understand the push. But first things first. It is bad enough that your customers hate to fly on your planes. Now they might get a chance to hate a perfectly good cruise line.

You are in the people moving business. You know, as in elevators, escalators, moving walkways, mass transit. You move people from point A to point B. You employ tens of thousands of bean counters to tell you how much it costs to operate your business. Price yourself accordingly. Do not play games. They do not work and one would think that after the past four or five years you would have seen that they do not work. [Doug S.? You listening?]

How many harebrained schemes have you devised that have failed? Douglas, remember the GDS “sharing”? This is not the sharing you learned in kindergarten. What about those “use-it-or-lose-it” tickets that you all, dare I say “colluded,” on implementing?

Instead of trying to figure out ways to land the golden parachute, concentrate on landing the planes — preferably on time and safely, but if it needs to be late, not that much. And please let your customers know what is going on.

Gerard, there is nothing special in the air. Gerald, we don’t love the way you fly. Glenn, your skies are anything but friendly. Gordon, the proud bird with the golden tail is molting. Douglas, some people really know how to fly — unfortunately, it seems their names are Kelleher, Neeleman, Leonard and Parker. And Bruce, while US Airways may begin with me, you need to remember it may also end with me. [Bruce, maybe a Christmas gift is in order as well, come to think of it.]

Gentleman, fly your planes, price them fairly and treat your employees, agents and customers as you would want to be treated yourself.

You do have some outstanding talent out there — look at your pilots, flight attendants, mechanics, gate agents, ground crew, management, travel agents, caterers, cleaners. They want to earn a fair wage and they want to work for you. Treat them and pay them fairly and soon you will reap the rewards.

Happy holidays.

Wow, last year I had 741 words and this year it’s 777. That is not a lot of change, but then again, as I look at the industry, I guess that’s par for the course!

Friday, December 9, 2005

B Is For Barcelona

When you think of the “A List” of European cities, London, Paris and Rome immediately come to mind. But like the 45s of yesteryear (yes, I am that old, and I do remember them), western Europe has several “B-side” destinations that become popular favorites as soon as you pay them attention. Barcelona is one of them. Now, with summer airfares to Europe predicted to remain fairly stable, this cosmopolitan Mediterranean capital is a must-see.

My latest trip to Barcelona began with a connection in London — not the most direct itinerary, but the inconvenience was far outweighed by the view I had as we crossed the Pyrenees coming into Spain. As we flew over the clouds, I could barely distinguish the snow-capped mountains from the peaks of the clouds — quite a view, and a hint of the sometimes-surreal experience that Barcelona presents on the ground.

Where to go

Find your way to La Rambla, Barcelona’s famous tree-lined street in the heart of the city. Stretching from the port (Port Vell) to Placa Catalunya, La Rambla serves as the boundary between the neighborhoods of El Ravel to the west and Barre Gotic to the east. Barre Gotic (Gothic Quarter), the medieval section of this ancient seaside town, has many bars, restaurants and historical sites. Watch the many street performers and stroll the open-air markets (the bird market is my favorite). While you may be tempted to check out the ornate Gran Teatre del Liceu, the opera house on La Rambla, keep in mind that it is no historic building; in fact, it was built in the late 1990s.

For the real deal in ornate architecture, head for La Sagrada Família (Holy Family Cathedral), Antoni Gaudi’s astonishing exercise in Gothic surrealism — and Barcelona’s most famous landmark. The foundation stone was set 1882, yet construction continues to this day. Since most of the plans for the cathedral were destroyed in the Spanish Civil War, the craftsmen who are completing the work are pretty much guessing as to Gaudi’s vision. Although you can take an elevator to some of the higher reaches, I suggest you climb the stairs if you are able. There are plenty of cutouts from which you can view the city and the construction below. As the spire narrows, so does the diameter of the circular stairway, and if the steps don’t take your breath away, the view certainly will.

For a relaxing afternoon, spend some time in Parc Güell, where you can see more of Gaudi’s art and architecture. For the kids, as well as for a spectacular view of the city and sea, take the Blue Tram to Tibidabo, an amusement park on top of a hill overlooking the city. Check the operating hours first (I learned this the hard way!). Montjuic, a seaside hill overlooking Port Vell, is home to the 1992 Olympic Stadium, several museums and a hilltop fort that protected the city from unfriendly ships in days gone by.

Barcelona has literally too many museums to mention, but if you would like a list or a recommendation, e-mail me or surf over to the Tripso Forums and ask one of our professional travel planners.

What to eat

There are plenty of restaurants in Barcelona, but one of my favorites is Escriba Xiringuito, which looks out over the beach. The wait for an outside table is worth it — just order an aperitif and hang with the locals until one opens up. The tapas are fantastic and include fried vegetable morsels, croquettes, and sardines. In my opinion, Escriba’s claim to fame is the desserts: The pastries are some of the best I have ever eaten.

I am a firm believer in dining where the locals dine, and the people of Barcelona do not disappoint me. Folquer, a small and intimate place with a big local clientele, is another of my favorites. While it does offer some very chic dishes, it is their traditional Catalan fare, such as scrambled eggs and mushrooms, that sets this restaurant apart. The menu is prix fixe and is very reasonable.

Botafumeiro is a Barcelona institution noted for its fine seafood and fantastic oysters. But like any noted restaurant, it comes with a price, so save it for a special night on the town. The menu is huge and has offerings other than fish. Such a fine seafood restaurant deserves to be on the Mediterranean, but alas, this one is located in the city, on a busy street.

Where to stay

Eurostars Grand Marina has a location worthy of its 5-star rating: It sits at the end of a pier extending out into the Mediterranean at Port Vell. While not inexpensive at $350 a night, it is a good value because the amenities and atmosphere are so superior. The rooms are very modern with hardwood floors and sharp angles. The views from most rooms are spectacular, and the hotel is very convenient to La Rambla, Montjuic, and the waterfront. A cable car stops at the front entrance, or you can take a nice walk to shops and restaurants.

The hotel works equally well for business and leisure travelers. The service is impeccable, and the food at the restaurant Aire de Mar, which seats 120, represents the best dishes of Mediterranean cuisine. The only disappointment is the hotel’s small rooftop pool, which is crowded in summer and typically closed in winter.

Easier on the wallet is the Hotel H10 Catalunya Plaza, on Placa Catalunya. This small hotel has all the amenities you could want, including room service, breakfast buffets and quaint balconies for people watching. It is conveniently located, and the average price for a room is approximately $175 per night.

Just as “Fool on the Hill” and “When I’m Sixty-Four” were both B-side tunes that became No. 1 hits for the Fab Four, Barcelona is an often-overlooked city that will fast become a favorite with anyone who strolls her streets. So take a walk on the flip side. Barcelona might just go to the top of your chart.