Confessions of an Electronic Traveler

Sometimes I think that the days of leaving your life behind are a thing of the past, and maybe that’s a bad thing. But, like it or not, today we are more connected than ever. We’ve got e-mail from cruise ships, satellite calls from the Serengeti, cell phones in flight. BlackBerrys, Palms, PDAs, and PIMs — they’re becoming as common as calculators. But what are the really essential electronics for the traveler? And how best to use them?

Cell phones. Perhaps the greatest invention of the last 20 years is the cellular phone. Curiously, as the technology evolves, actual phone-calling is falling to the bottom of its features list. Cell phones now take pictures, send e-mail, fire off instant messages, surf the Web, add and subtract, broadcast radio programs, alert you to the time, and who knows what more.

So, does the average traveler need one?

Absolutely. A cell phone is probably the most essential tool for the road, especially if you learn how to use all the features. If you do a lot of international traveling, look for a “world phone” (quad band), which will operate with most service providers if properly configured. Except for some pretty obscure places, you can be connected worldwide for both incoming and outgoing calls.

If you do not have a world phone, you can probably still use your phone in most industrialized nations. When you arrive at your destination, you can purchase a SIM card to insert into your phone. This will allow all your contacts to come with you. You buy the card from a cell shop, kiosk, or machine in an airport for service on a local carrier, and the calls are then billed to your credit card.

And do spend some time getting to know your phone’s features. I have a tough time with hotel alarm clocks (it’s just a thing), but my cell phone fits the bill all the time. With my Nokia phone, I can also use a headset and listen to radio — not quite as good as the iPod, but it does OK in a pinch.

Music. Nothing will get your trip off to a worse start than a wailing infant in the seat behind you. I understand that kids need to travel, too, and I have traveled many places with my own three kids — all good travelers, but by no means perfect. I understand the challenge, but that doesn’t mean I have to listen to the wailing. My advice is: Pack some tunes.

For $299 you can buy the industry standard — the iPod — and have all your favorite tunes literally at your fingertips. Drown out that darling child’s tantrum, quiet the noise of the city streets, or simply crash on a bed and gather your thoughts. Let your iPod or other digital music player take you away whenever the cacophony of life becomes just too much.

PDA. No, not the type of PDA you dreamed about as a teen, but the Personal Digital Assistant. These devices come in various forms from many manufacturers, but the basic functions are the same. Your PDA should be able to hold all your contacts (serving as a good backup if you lose your phone), as well as your appointment calendar, to-do lists, and more.

Most of the newer PDAs can run special versions of the Microsoft Office family of products, so you can make last-minute changes to that presentation, or work on that novel that is inside each of us. Toss in a few games and you are set for entertainment as well.

Current converters and adapters. If you are traveling outside the United States, you will need one of these — not for your money (that’s a currency converter) but for your gadgets. Many countries are different and there is nothing worse than trying to fit a round peg in a square hole in some foreign hotel. Ask your travel professional about the current (in the electrical sense)situation in your destination country, and then go prepared. Typical converters can be found for under $25 and adapters for under $15. One time in London, when I had forgotten my converter, the nice lady at Boots—a popular British pharmacy and catch all store, was so kind as to sell one to me for 40 pounds. You do the math!

Laptop. Honestly, with a cell phone, iPod, and a PDA, you can leave your laptop at home. If you need some files from home, buy a flash memory card, copy the needed files, and plug it in at an Internet café or hotel business center.

But before you head out the door with a pocketful of gadgets, remember the chargers. Batteries don’t last forever, and if Murphy is right, yours will give out just before you finish something wonderful or important—or worse when that Nicole Kidman look-a-like decides to give her your phone number and you try to put it into your PDA. Also remember that all these gadgets will definitely trigger the dreaded secondary search from security agents should you forget to put them through the X-ray machine at the airport — along with your shoes, belt, watch, coins, knitting needles and other implements of destruction.

But on second thought, the idea of a week away without all these electronic distractions seems awfully alluring. I know a great place in Runaway Bay, Jamaica, with horrible cell-phone service. It’s got a great hammock in the shade overlooking the surf, reggae music playing off in the distance, and some wickedly wild Jamaican-rum-laden Dirty Bananas*. With all that going for it, who cares if you can’t hear me now?

* Or you can email me for the recipe.

Living It Up In The Mayan Riviera

Suggest a Mexican getaway, and most people think of Cancun, a balmy beach resort area manufactured as a tourist destination in the early 1970s. The first hotel broke ground in 1972. Now, 33 years later, Cancun has more than 50,000 hotel beds, hundreds of restaurants, and a couple of mega-malls for the throngs of American sun worshippers who come here to play, sometimes every year.

I say, skip Cancun and head 40 minutes south — to the Riviera Maya, a long stretch of beautiful Caribbean coast on the Yucatán peninsula. The area is lush with coconut palms and jungle, is close to the ancient ruins of Tulum, and has a wonderful laid-back attitude. And while the area has been discovered, it still holds many of the charms of old Mexico.

Where to go

Once a sleepy fishing village, Playa del Carmen has grown over the years, and it remains to be seen how it will evolve. There are several large resorts just south of the town, and the beaches are becoming more crowded. But the town itself is a throwback to a less hectic time and place.

As you stroll through the town, merchants hawk their wares and children frolic in the town square. Don’t be turned off by aggressive merchants. They are just trying to earn a living, and energetic bargaining is a way of life here. On the other hand, Mexican culture is very polite, and a simple “No, gracias” will usually send the shop owners away. If they really bother you, head for the larger stores, where bargaining is less common.

This area of Mexico is known for its silver, Mayan masks, embroidered cotton blouses, hammocks, and other crafts — and, of course, for tequila. Cuban cigars are also available, but remember, you cannot bring them into the United States.

While in town, don’t miss the Xaman-Ha Aviary, a 32-acre park with walking trails that will bring you face to face (sometimes literally) with 60 species of tropical birds, including scarlet macaws, toucans, flamingos, and some very raucous parrots. Great for kids and photographers, especially if you go in late morning or late afternoon, when the birds are most active.

As you head south, be sure to stop at Xcaret Park. This man-made eco-park bills itself as a “theme park,” but there’s a lot of education here, too, including a glimpse of Mayan history and an introduction to the region’s flora and fauna. Swimming with dolphins is popular here, as is the nighttime folklore show — one of the best in Mexico — but for a truly unique experience, swim or snorkel in the two underground rivers. (http://www.xcaret.com)

Another outstanding place to snorkel is at Xel-Ha Park. Its crystal-clear lagoon is home to one of the most beautiful fish in the sea: the parrotfish. Be warned that Xel-Ha has also been discovered by plenty of cruise passengers, whose ships dock nearby. If you can avoid a ship day (typically Tuesdays and Thursdays) you can also avoid the crowds. Don’t bother bringing your usual sunscreen: It’s not allowed because the oils harm the fish. But you can buy an eco-friendly sunscreen as you enter the park. (http://www.xel-ha.com.mx)

Tulum is an ancient city with an impressive fortress, and the it’s only Mayan city built on the coast. When it flourished, between the fifth and 13th centuries, it is believed to have been larger than Seville, Spain. As with most ancient places, the Mexicans show Tulum great respect, and beach clothes are discouraged. Wear shorts and a hat (especially at midday), and be sure to bring lots of film, because the vistas from the promontory are absolutely stunning. Morning is a good time to visit, before the tour buses disgorge their cargo of day-trippers.

What to eat

Food is certainly not in short supply in Mexico. In the town of Playa del Carmen, traditional Mayan food can be found at Yaxche Maya Cuisine, which has both beautiful surroundings and outstanding service. The owners of the restaurant are involved with the local Mayan culture, so there is a good chance that your meal may be an educational experience as well as an epicurean one.

Another favorite restaurant is Media Luna, which is open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, and is the most popular restaurant in the area. The fish is wonderful (this is hearsay, as I do not partake), as are the vegetarian dishes. Speaking from firsthand knowledge, you’d be hard-pressed to find better pasta and salad anywhere in the area.

For die-hard American palates, Playa del Carmen also has a TGI Friday’s and a Señor Frog’s. Same food, different T-shirts.

Where to stay

One of the most beautiful hotels in the area is the Grand Xcaret by Occidental. Tucked away in a jungle, this all-inclusive resort abuts Xcaret Park, and admission to the park is included in your stay. The beach is small and man-made as the shoreline is a bit rocky in this area, but the pools are excellent. Besides, you’ll probably want to head to Playa del Carmen (the locals refer to it simply as “Playa”) for a day or two at its lovely beaches; there is good reef diving there, as well.

The Grand Xcaret’s rooms are spacious, and no matter how busy the resort is, you never feel crowded. Beautiful parrots are perched seemingly at every turn, and a bar and food is never far away. For a special treat, stay in the hotel’s Royal Club, a private section near the beach with a private pool, restaurant and upgraded rooms and suites. The staff is wonderful and will go out of its way to meet your needs. The hotel also has a great kids’ program. (http://grandxcaret.com).

For a unique experience, head a little farther south to the Xpu Ha Palace. While the resort is currently closed due to hurricane damage, it is expected to reopen shortly. This oasis is a part of the Palace Resorts chain in Mexico and is perfect for doing absolutely nothing at all. Hammocks abound for your siesta, food and drink are always at hand, and every room has a whirlpool spa and balcony. To get around, you’ll need to use the resort’s internal transportation system: bicycles.

If you must do something more active than pedaling, you can paddle your way through an estuary (see if you can spot a manatee) or take in a few holes of golf at the hotel’s nearby sister property, the Moon Palace. Snorkeling, kayaking, a catamaran tour, and mangrove and jungle tours are also available. (http://www.xpuha-palace.com).

A couple of cautions.

If you rent a scooter or moped to help you get around, please be careful. They can be very dangerous, especially where the ground is soft, sandy, or gravely. Moreover, the deductible on the insurance is often very high.

It is also not a good idea to rent a car in Mexico. If you are involved in an accident, you can be detained until the damage is fixed, or until you have your day in court.

Those cautions aside, Mexico’s Riviera Maya is one of the most fascinating destinations in the world. Visit while it is still relatively unspoiled and uncrowded, and save me a hammock!

So, You Wanna Be A Travel Agent?

Back in the mid 90s, I almost bought a restaurant. It was a great restaurant — great location, great food, great patrons and great potential. Then a friend of mine who owns several restaurants took me aside and warned me, “You don’t want to get into the restaurant business unless you are born into it!” Probably very good advice. So what did I do? I got into the travel business, instead.

Out of the frying pan and into the fire? Well, yes and no.

Certainly the travel industry has faced some significant challenges since the mid 90s: war, recession, disappearing commissions, SARS and, of course, 9/11. The industry has evolved into a strange dichotomy: It is growing yet shrinking, and it is robust yet stagnant.

That should be a warning to proceed with caution. But then, there are those two great temptations: the perks and the easy work.

Ha! Let’s take those two myths one at a time.

The perks. The thought of free five-star hotel rooms and almost-free airline tickets and cruise passage is enough to lure almost anyone to this industry. If you need more, there are the free familiarization trips (fams) sponsored by tourism councils, resorts, and other travel suppliers.

Wake up! Such perks may have existed many years ago, but today they are about as real as the Tooth Fairy (apologies to my youngest daughter, who still believes).

Agents do get a 75 percent discount on airfare, but the base price for the calculation is the highest unrestricted fare (“Thanks for nothing,” to the Big Six). Similarly, hotels offer discounts to agents, but they are calculated from the “rack rate,” which is the highest published rate.

Cruise lines typically offer an agent discount, too, but it is good only on sailings that have space available, and agents usually sail on a standby basis, so you may wind up vacationing not on the ship but in the port.

Fam trips do exist, and while completely complimentary trips are rare, there are plenty of fams offered to productive agents at very low rates. Last year, for example, I participated in a fam with Sandals Resorts; my total cost was $150, including airfare from Baltimore.

A buck-and-a-half for some sun and fun in Jamaica is most definitely worth it — count me in!

But wait, check the itinerary: that’s a 6 a.m. flight to Jamaica returning home that same evening. Add the hassles of customs, immigration, and the inspection of four resorts (rooms to restaurants, closets to kitchens), and you start having second thoughts.

Sure, I got two free Dirty Banana drinks, and I had 15 free minutes to dip my toes in the Caribbean, but by the time I’d grabbed the bus back to the airport for my 8:30 p.m. flight home, my dream trip was looking a little like drudgery.

Then, to turn the pleasant day trip into a full-fledged nightmare, try explaining to the TSA agents back home that you were only in Jamaica for a few hours, that you have no luggage and nothing to declare, and that you’re traveling on a free ticket. You’ll need to hone your negotiating skills or be ready for that oft-threatened cavity search (and I’m pretty sure we’re not talking dentistry).

On to Myth Number Two.

It’s easy work. My father has always told me that to succeed at anything, you need to work hard at it. Travel is no different. There are many companies out there that would like you to think that you can sell travel by simply placing a link on your Web site or chatting up friends and neighbors.

Au contraire. Travel sales are more complicated than ever. New destinations and hotels are popping up left and right, the airlines have created their own labyrinth of fares and schedules, and people’s expectations have changed.

There are legal considerations, too. The mere act of booking a trip for a client may subject you to liability should anything go wrong. Most professional travel agents these days are bonded and insured, and they spend countless hours getting to know their destinations and their clients. Believe me, nothing about this job comes easy. What’s more, the pay is pretty dismal.

Still, travel is a fun industry. It’s also very addictive. Most travel agents develop a real love for the industry, and they tend to remain connected to it in some way forever. It’s like the Hotel California in the old Eagles song: You can check out any time you like, but you can never leave.

If you are serious about becoming a travel agent, plan to invest both time and energy. Decide if you want to work in a retail environment or at home, and then jump in. Some outstanding resources to get you started include the American Society of Travel Agents (ASTA), the Outside Sales Support Network (OSSN), the National Association of Commissioned Travel Agents (NACTA), and the Association of Retail Travel Agents (ARTA).

These are all legitimate professional organizations. But there are many other, more questionable outfits promising to speed you on your way to the good life as a travel agent. These so-called “card mills” provide an identification card (sometimes legitimate, sometimes not) that will supposedly open many doors for you (but they usually don’t). They also have an uncanny knack for draining your wallet before you realize what is going on.

“Travel industry card mills are in the business of facilitating deception,” says Kathryn Sudeikis, chief executive officer for the American Society of Travel Agents. “They make money from identification, which is used by people looking to take advantage of travel industry suppliers such as hotels, airlines and cruise lines. Their deceptive practices harm consumers who are tricked into purchasing travel agent identification cards with no tangible economic benefit, except when a travel supplier unwittingly and erroneously grants a discount. Buying the card won’t get you any better deals but it might pull the wool over suppliers’ eyes.”

But before you go worrying about identification cards fam trips, and all those fictitious perks, you’d better make sure you are aware of the job description.

Help wanted. Travel Agent. Must be willing to learn the industry and able to work under pressure. Must possess outstanding customer service skills, a good sense of humor (mostly for dealing with the airlines), and a never-say-die attitude. Position requires long hours and a loving desire to see the world. Salary: not as much as anyone would like. Personal rewards: fantastic. Only serious applicants need apply.

A New Look At New Orleans

Whatever your vice, it can probably be found in New Orleans, home of Mardi Gras, zydeco, bimbos and booze. But this bad-ass river town has another side: romantic, soulful, epicurean, and yes, even familial. Take a new look at the Big Easy with the loving eye of a local.

Some say Paris is the most romantic city in the world, but in the absence of a transatlantic ticket, New Orleans might give it a run for the money. From the quaint carriage rides around the French Quarter to the splendor of a streetcar ride along St. Charles Avenue, you will never run short of romantic opportunities. (Did you know that New Orleans, not San Francisco had the first streetcar?)

But according to Christine Decuir of the New Orleans Convention and Visitors Bureau, a lifetime resident of the city, you can’t beat Woldenburg Park for romance. This tree-lined, brick-paved promenade runs along the riverfront between Canal Street and Esplanade Avenue. Take a moonlight stroll and watch the ships churn their way to the Gulf of Mexico. Have a seat on one of the many benches and listen to the smooth sound of jazz wafting over the river from the not-too-distant French Quarter. If you are lucky, a few dollars might get you a soulful private concert from a street saxophone player.

Do you have kids along with you? As long as you keep the little ones away from the antics on Bourbon Street after 8 p.m., New Orleans can be a great vacation spot for the whole family. Teens will love the shopping at Riverwalk Marketplace or the Shoppes at Canal Place, and of course at the French Market on Decatur Street (pronounced duh-KAY-ter, please).

While there are literally hundreds of organized tours suitable for families, I suggest that a regular streetcar would be a lot more fun than a huge hired motor coach. Along the Mississippi River in the French Quarter is the Audubon Aquarium of the Americas, featuring 10,000 animals including a rare white alligator named Spots. The Entergy IMAX Theatre, next door to the aquarium, is always a treat for all ages. A brisk walk will take you to the new National D-Day Museum, opened just five years ago, which offers an interactive tour of U.S. involvement in World War II, with an interesting look at amphibious landing craft—which were designed and built right in New Orleans.

The Audubon Zoo, on Magazine Street, offers a fabulous collection of natural habitats, an elephant show, and the Embraceable Zoo—all in the heart of the Garden District; take the St. Charles streetcar, walk, or take a ferry from the dock next to the aquarium.

Another in-town oasis is City Park, a 1,500-acre playground that offers families an amusement park, the New Orleans Museum of Art (NOMA), boating, fishing, do-nothing relaxation, and 54 holes of golf — rumored to be the cheapest 18 holes you can play in the United States.

There is certainly no shortage of places to eat in New Orleans. Of course, you have world-renowned restaurants like Commander’s Palace, Brennan’s and Emeril’s, but New Orleans also hosts some fabulous lesser-known but equally appetizing restaurants. For a taste of true Creole cooking, head to Bourbon Street and experience lunch or dinner at Galatoire’s, on the corner of Bourbon and Iberville. The service is impeccable, and the chef’s creations are not to be believed. It’s a little pricy (about $100 a couple, including a drink and a tip), but it’s worth every penny. Reservations are suggested. (Galatoire’s, 504-525-2021)

For one of the best burgers in town, venture over to Bourbon and Dumaine and settle in at the Clover Grill. They have been serving traditional American “greasy spoon” cuisine since 1950, and burgers are their specialty. People-watchers will be entertained by parade of drag queens, transsexuals and rockers all decked out in studded leather — both inside and outside of the Clover Grill—staff included! Always a fun time and probably one of the friendliest wait staffs I have ever encountered. No reservations needed, and the grill is open 24/7. (Clover Grill, 504-598-1010)

To settle that morning-after stomach, amble over to Croissant d’Or Patisserie on Ursuline Street between Chartres (pronounced CHAR-ters, please) and Royal. This local favorite has been called the best bakery in the city. In addition to the baked goods (the croissants rival anything you will find in Paris), the bakery offers a very decent breakfast and lunch. The staff can come off as a bit distant or even rude, which is unusual for New Orleans, but that makes the city just that much more eclectic — besides, you are here for the food, not the conversation. Open until 4:30 p.m. every day except Tuesday; no reservations needed. (Croissant d’Or Patisserie, 504-524-4663)

New Orleans is a party city, and you can scratch most any itch you’ve got on Bourbon Street. But if you want to experience more than a full glass of your hooch-du-jour, head to some of the lesser-known haunts. If jazz is your jones, take a walk along Bourbon, passing up Preservation Hall for now, and head for the Faubourg Marginy district, where you’ll find the Snug Harbor Jazz Bistro. This out-of-the-way performance venue is a working artist’s club. The jazz you will hear is not yesterday’s jazz but the jazz that is yet to come. Local iconic families, including the Marsalis and Neville clans, routinely play here.

The place starts swinging around 9 p.m., and a second set plays at 11 — leaving you plenty of time to get into trouble on Bourbon Street. You don’t come to Snug Harbor for the food (it’s marginal); it’s the atmosphere and the passion of the music that take it over the top. Snug Harbor’s signature drink is the Monsoon. It’s wonderful, it’s potent, it’s expensive — and I have no idea what’s in it. (Snug Harbor Jazz Bistro, 504-949-0696)

Sightseeing, eating, drinking, dancing, and more drinking are all fine and good, but where do you lay your head at the dawn of a bright day in New Orleans? A lot of people will insist that one of the Bourbon Street hotels is “the” place to be. I agree — if you like the noise of revelry till dawn, the smell of stale beer and worse, and the sound of Public Works cleaning up the mess from the night before. But if you want some peace and quiet, maybe some romance, a fine restaurant, and convenience, look to the Maison Dupuy on Toulouse and Burgundy (pronounced bur-GUN-dy, please). The hotel is made up of seven town homes surrounding one of the largest courtyards in the French Quarter. Festooned in Spanish moss, the courtyard is a charming spot with old-fashioned fountains and wrought-iron chairs, but it also has a welcome swimming pool and hot tub.

The Maison Dupuy is also home to chef Dominique Macquet and his restaurant, Dominique’s, which offers truly international flavor in every creation. Room rates begin at $99 per night. If you have a special occasion, consider the Maison Dupuy’s Honeymoon Suite on the fifth floor ($500 per night) or the Carriage House (Rod Stewart slept there) at $600 per night. (Maison Dupuy, 800-535-9177)

Don’t be a tourist when you head to the Big Easy. Explore it like a local and you’ll soak up more than the alcohol in the Hurricanes and the Hand Grenades. Sample some old jazz at Preservation Hall, and hear the new jazz that is just emerging from this fabulous town. Skip the tourist traps and try some more subdued and local-flavored dining. Heed my tips on the “correct” pronunciation of some streets names, and you’ll fit right in. New Orleans is my favorite domestic destination, and I like to visit several times a year. Each time I discover something new and wonderful. It’s that kind of town. It’s my kind of town.

Interested in exploring New Orleans? Register at the Tripso Forums, and you could win a pair of tickets on US Airways — which would make that Carriage House at the Maison Dupuy a little more doable!