Top 5 For 2005

We asked more than 1,300 loyal readers of the Tripso forums to help us forecast the “hip” and “in” places for 2006. Here are the results.

1. Vegas, baby! Vegas is a perennial favorite, offering something for every adult. A few years back, Vegas tried to promote itself as a family resort, and … well, let’s be nice and just say it failed miserably. Today’s Vegas is the Vegas of yesteryear with some fantastic new resorts like Wynn Las Vegas, a great show by Elton John called “The Red Piano” at Caesar’s Palace, and a new resort and casino called Las Ramblas (set to open in 2008) from the latest incarnation of the Rat Pack: Jorge Perez, George Clooney, Rande Gerber and Jim Stuart.

2. Central America. Central America is a favorite with our readers, especially Guatemala and Costa Rica. As Ned, one of our Gold Posters said, “Both Costa Rica and Guatemala could become hot spots now. People are looking for something different these days. Both these countries have some fantastic places to visit, especially Guatemala. It appears as though Guatemala is pretty safe again (although it’s always good to be wary when traveling anywhere these days), which opens it up. Both Tikal and Chichicastenango (the entire Lake Atitlan area) are real travel highlights.” Outstanding advice, Ned!

3. Southern Caribbean. One of the most interesting cruise itineraries is the “Southern Route,” which gives travelers a taste of the real Caribbean with visits to islands like Aruba, Barbados, St. Lucia and St. Kitts, among others. While popular with the cruise lines, these islands also make for a wonderful land-based vacation. Aruba has the cooling trade winds and could use a little help with its tourism. (Note to our readers: Don’t boycott Aruba. It is really a gem.) Barbados is home to some of the friendliest people you will find anywhere, and their famous flying fish are nothing short of mesmerizing.

4. New York City. The Big Apple is coming back into its own after the terrorist attacks of 2001. They say that the city never sleeps, and that’s true — there’s just too much going on for much shut-eye. From the lights of Broadway, to the majesty of Lady Liberty in New York Harbor, to the hustle and bustle of Wall Street, to the beatnik personality of Greenwich Village, New York City will not disappoint.

5. Vietnam. This is a tough one to explain, but Vietnam certainly is big on the Tripso forums. One of our newer members, Kykate, chimed in, “I’m voting for Vietnam. I’ve been there three times in the past 12 months, and enjoy it better with every trip. There are great beaches, low-cost shopping, friendly people and a lot of little villages and towns to explore. The food is good, but not gourmet, in most places. With United’s direct service to Saigon/Ho Chi Minh City, it is easy to get there and back.”

Kykate’s sentiments were echoed by another new member, Nobody 122: “I definitely have to agree with this — amazing country, people are some of the most friendly on Earth (ranking right up there with Thais, Australians and Philippinos (sic)), and the idea that a luxury 5-star resort costs about what a Red Roof would in the U.S. makes it all the more compelling.”

My top pick did not make the list: New Orleans and the Gulf Coast. We all know of the devastation from Hurricane Katrina, and right now these areas need a huge boost from tourism. The government is doing what it can, but it’s up to us to support the Gulf Coast economy by spending some money. I know I will be there in February. Laissez les bons temps rouler!

So, there you have it! A few weeks ago, we highlighted the Top 5 Kid Picks for travel and now you have the top picks of the road warriors from Tripso. Here’s wishing everyone a safe and happy 2006!

Are You The Client From Hell-- Part 2?

Has your travel agent seemed a little on edge with you lately? Have you noticed a change in tone when he talks to you? Are you becoming more and more intimate with his voice mail? You could be turning into the client from hell. Relax. There is still time to reclaim your status as a nice person.

As New Year’s approaches, let me remind you of five simple rules for the care and feeding of me, your travel agent. The result can be a much-improved partnership that will serve us both well in 2006.

Be respectful of my time. I am a professional travel agent, and my time is every bit as important as your time. Please keep this in mind when you call to ask for help. Yes, I will go out of my way to help you, but I do have other clients — some of whom may have (sorry to say) priority at the moment. I need to prioritize my work so I can deliver knockout service to each client in the long run. You wouldn’t waste your doctor’s time, would you?

Be honest with me. If you have already booked that vacation and are just trying to keep your regular agent honest (or are just checking your own surfing skills), please let me know. I’m not saying that I won’t help you, but I would rather know up front that I don’t have a chance at a sale. I’ll still work with you, because I know I might have a shot at your next trip. But when I sit down to help you, please remember my first point.

Remember that kindergarten math lesson. Apples belong with apples and oranges belong with oranges. There is nothing more frustrating than being asked to investigate one option only to be told later that you got it cheaper elsewhere — but what you got isn’t even remotely what you originally asked for. When you say you want to leave from Baltimore and go to Fort Lauderdale, I will research flights leaving from Baltimore, Washington and Dulles Airports for you as well flights arriving to Fort Lauderdale, Palm Beach and Miami. Boston isn’t an option I would normally consider, and neither is Tampa. Yes, you may find the fare to be less expensive for the Boston-to-Tampa route, but that is not what you asked me to investigate. So please define your terms clearly.

Have an idea about what you want. It is very difficult to help someone who cannot even begin to make up his mind. Please do not be the ice-cream lover who must sample all 31 flavors. If you come to me looking for pricing on a family vacation to Alaska, the Caribbean, Europe or the Pocono Mountains, chances are that I am not going to take your request too seriously. Now, if you are trying to decide between Alaska and the Caribbean in the summer, we can talk.

Be realistic. Inevitably, the question is going to come up, “What is your budget?” Believe it or not, I am not looking to empty your wallet. This is a critical question that needs an honest answer before I can design your trip. You need to have an idea of what to expect for your hard-earned dollars. I will not be able to find a week at Disney World for your family of four that includes air fares, character breakfasts, Park Hopper passes, a personal meeting with Walt, and lodging in the Grand Floridian - all for $1,999. That is simply not going to happen. But I might be able to get you into an off-resort property (sorry, Walt still won’t be joining you). I am not being nosy when I ask about your budget, and remember, you always have the final say.

Do you see yourself here? Be honest. Most travel agents are genuinely nice people who have specialized in this ever-changing and complex field. Your travel agent will work hard with you, but if you morph into the client from hell, be prepared. You might be the one getting a pink slip.

Dare To Dream: Climbing Kilimanjaro

It all started in Sacramento on October 30, 2003, when a great friend and I witnessed (the word “saw” just doesn’t do it justice) the IMAX film Kilimanjaro: To the Roof of Africa. After that experience, I realized that someday I had to climb that mountain. With a little luck and a new exercise regimen, this dream will come true for me in the summer of 2006.

The snowy peak of Mount Kilimanjaro rises majestically above the gently rolling hills and plateaus of northern Tanzania, its slopes shimmering above the rising clouds. The mountain’s ecosystems are as beautiful as they are varied: five distinct climate zones from the base of the mountain to the summit. The thick lowland forest that covers the lower portions of the mountain breaks into lush meadows as the air begins to thin out. Closer to the summit, the landscape is a barren expanse of rocks and ice. From here, the view of Africa stretched out below you is breathtaking.

Hiking on the “Rooftop of Africa” — at 19,340 feet, it is the highest point on the continent — is the adventure of a lifetime. Provided the trek is well paced, everyone from seasoned trekkers to first-time enthusiasts can scale Kilimanjaro all the way to her snowy peak. But if you are to experience this thrill, you need to go soon. Scientists warn that global warming may eliminate the snowcap in as few as 10 years. Once this happens, our planet will have lost another natural wonder, just as we lost the Yangtze River in China.

“Kilimanjaro: To the Roof of Africa” was perhaps the most moving movie I have ever seen, and I want to literally trek in the footsteps of filmmaker David Breashears. After a little research I found I could do that with an outfit that Breashears himself endorses: Thomson Safaris, based in Watertown, Mass. Their nine-day “Western Breach Route” follows the route taken by Breashears and his crew when they filmed the movie.

Come along and dream with me.

Day 1. After a hearty breakfast and a briefing, we’ll head to the Londorossi Gate (elevation: 5,900 feet) to begin the day’s four-hour climb. This first trekking day is through dense rainforest (it receives an average of 80 inches of precipitation a year) under a tangled canopy of moss-coated vines, which are home to black-and-white colobus monkeys, blue monkeys, and a vibrant array of exotic birds. When we reach camp, in the lower heather belt, we get a hot dinner in the mess tent. This night is spent at Forest Camp, at 9,500 feet.

Day 2. Once out of the forest, we’ll take a steep track into a savannah of tall grasses, heather and volcanic rock draped with lichen beards. We’ll climb through the lush rolling hills below the Shira Plateau, finally reaching camp at the edge of the plateau after six hours on the trail. The view of Kilimanjaro from across the plateau is amazing. We’ll bunk down at Shira 1 Camp, at 12,200 feet.

Day 3. Our third day is a full four hours of hiking but not too much climbing, so there is time to fully explore the Shira Plateau. Shira is one of the highest plateaus on earth, with an average elevation of 12,500 feet. We trek east toward Kilimanjaro’s glaciated peak, finally arriving at Shira 2 Camp, at 12,600 feet.

Day 4. After breakfast we’ll head out on a four-hour hike across the Shira Ridge en route to Moir Camp. The camp is nestled below a large bluff surrounded by cliffs in the upper heather zone at 13,800 feet.

Day 5. Day 5 will be a difficult day as we proceed steadily upward over expansive ridgelines of high desert to our camp, which is set in a striking spot at the base of Lava Tower (yes, Kilimanjaro is a volcano). If any energy remains, I might test my ardor by climbing to the top of Lava Tower for some of the most spectacular panoramas on the trek. Day 5 has us sleeping at Lava Tower Camp, at 15,100 feet.

Day 6. Today we get a taste of a mountain range with freezing temperatures and snow squalls. The trek is only two hours to Arrow Glacier Camp, but we will have climbed another thousand feet. All that remains here of the Arrow Glacier and Little Breach Glacier are some snow patches and terminal moraine, but nowhere on the mountain is there a more spectacular view of the Western Breach headwall, which glows red in the setting sun.

Day 7. This is the roughest hiking day: eight solid hours in frigid terrain. We will be on our way by 6 a.m. and will climb to our next station at 18,750 feet, spending the night at Crater Camp. The camp is set in the wide crater of Kilimanjaro’s summit, in an arctic moonscape.

Day 8. This is the culmination of the trek, the last 600 feet to Uhuru Peak, at 19,340 feet. This is the reason people climb mountains: the sheer wonder and exhilaration of being up so high, with the world spread out below you. After spending some time at the top of Africa, we’ll start back down. Over the course of the afternoon, we will descend nearly 10,000 feet. We’ll spend the night at Mweka Camp, at 11,000 feet.

Day 9. We’ll finish our descent with a two- to three-hour hike through the rainforest to the Mweka Gate, where we will be met and returned to the lodge for a much-needed shower and some merry convalescence.

Make no mistake, this is not your average vacation. There are no beaches, no umbrella drinks, no cathedrals, no theme parks, no king-size beds and no in-room bar. While some may consider a roadside motel roughing it, this trip gives you the real deal. You do need to be in reasonable shape to be able to withstand the changes in altitude, and you will need to keep pushing yourself further and harder, but the rewards are substantial.

Very few people get to realize their dreams, but this summer I will. Hmm … I wonder what my friend from Sacramento is doing for two weeks in July.

Dear Mr. Airline CEO

Well, fellas, you still don’t get it, do you? Last year, I offered several suggestions to help you turn your struggling airline industry around. They might have worked. One will never know, because you didn’t try any of them. Here we are, a year later, and nothing much has changed.

Oh, wait! Something has changed. Last year at this time, there were two of you operating under the cozy protection of bankruptcy. This year, those two have slid over and made room for two more. Let’s see, that means 67 percent of the major domestic carriers are now operating under bankruptcy protection.

Let’s take a walk down Memory Lane and recall the letter I wrote to you on November 29, 2004. My 2005 observations are in brackets.

Dear Gerard, Gerald, Glenn, Gordon, Douglas, and Bruce,

As we approach the holiday season, I want to wish you all a wonderful holiday and extend my most sincere wishes for your survival. I realize that the past several years have stressed you out in the ivory towers and I am afraid that you may have lost sight of the big picture.

So as a favor — call this an early Christmas present — I’ll help you put the big picture into perspective.

You fly planes. You are not in the direct-to-consumer sales business. You have a ready, willing and able sales force to handle your distribution. Remember travel agents? Carlson Wagonlit? American Express? ASTA? Home-based? The thousands upon thousands of independents? Orbitz? Travelocity? Expedia?

Just pay them something for the effort and they will reward you with full flights and, what’s more, customer service. America West has done it and the last time I checked, their balance sheet was fairly healthy. [Bruce, you may finally be out of the woods. Make sure Doug Parker is on your Christmas card list!] Besides, travel agents have already demonstrated that they are survivors. They’re still here despite your best efforts.

You are not in the restaurant business. Stop trying to convince your passengers that you are. Your catered food, when available, is horrible, and the real restaurants have plenty of options in the airports. Save your meals for the really long flights, save some money and offer some prepackaged snacks. Sit down, shut up and eat your peanuts.

You are not the mafia. Stop acting like it. People are willing to pay you good money to use your planes. Stop trying to extort more money from them with fee upon fee upon fee. You are not charged a penny when you return to a retail store for a price accommodation because your goods were just put on sale. Why do you think it is fair for you to do this to your customers? [And Doug S., passing on the PFCs really is a fare increase. Let’s call a spade a spade.]

If you want to operate a cartel, why not just shake everyone down at the gate and collect all their loose change? But be careful, a horse head in the bed is worse than cabin lights coming on after a red-eye.

You are not in the cruise business or the hotel business. Stop trying to meddle in that market. If you guys could get your own house in order, I might understand the push. But first things first. It is bad enough that your customers hate to fly on your planes. Now they might get a chance to hate a perfectly good cruise line.

You are in the people moving business. You know, as in elevators, escalators, moving walkways, mass transit. You move people from point A to point B. You employ tens of thousands of bean counters to tell you how much it costs to operate your business. Price yourself accordingly. Do not play games. They do not work and one would think that after the past four or five years you would have seen that they do not work. [Doug S.? You listening?]

How many harebrained schemes have you devised that have failed? Douglas, remember the GDS “sharing”? This is not the sharing you learned in kindergarten. What about those “use-it-or-lose-it” tickets that you all, dare I say “colluded,” on implementing?

Instead of trying to figure out ways to land the golden parachute, concentrate on landing the planes — preferably on time and safely, but if it needs to be late, not that much. And please let your customers know what is going on.

Gerard, there is nothing special in the air. Gerald, we don’t love the way you fly. Glenn, your skies are anything but friendly. Gordon, the proud bird with the golden tail is molting. Douglas, some people really know how to fly — unfortunately, it seems their names are Kelleher, Neeleman, Leonard and Parker. And Bruce, while US Airways may begin with me, you need to remember it may also end with me. [Bruce, maybe a Christmas gift is in order as well, come to think of it.]

Gentleman, fly your planes, price them fairly and treat your employees, agents and customers as you would want to be treated yourself.

You do have some outstanding talent out there — look at your pilots, flight attendants, mechanics, gate agents, ground crew, management, travel agents, caterers, cleaners. They want to earn a fair wage and they want to work for you. Treat them and pay them fairly and soon you will reap the rewards.

Happy holidays.

Wow, last year I had 741 words and this year it’s 777. That is not a lot of change, but then again, as I look at the industry, I guess that’s par for the course!

B Is For Barcelona

When you think of the “A List” of European cities, London, Paris and Rome immediately come to mind. But like the 45s of yesteryear (yes, I am that old, and I do remember them), western Europe has several “B-side” destinations that become popular favorites as soon as you pay them attention. Barcelona is one of them. Now, with summer airfares to Europe predicted to remain fairly stable, this cosmopolitan Mediterranean capital is a must-see.

My latest trip to Barcelona began with a connection in London — not the most direct itinerary, but the inconvenience was far outweighed by the view I had as we crossed the Pyrenees coming into Spain. As we flew over the clouds, I could barely distinguish the snow-capped mountains from the peaks of the clouds — quite a view, and a hint of the sometimes-surreal experience that Barcelona presents on the ground.

Where to go

Find your way to La Rambla, Barcelona’s famous tree-lined street in the heart of the city. Stretching from the port (Port Vell) to Placa Catalunya, La Rambla serves as the boundary between the neighborhoods of El Ravel to the west and Barre Gotic to the east. Barre Gotic (Gothic Quarter), the medieval section of this ancient seaside town, has many bars, restaurants and historical sites. Watch the many street performers and stroll the open-air markets (the bird market is my favorite). While you may be tempted to check out the ornate Gran Teatre del Liceu, the opera house on La Rambla, keep in mind that it is no historic building; in fact, it was built in the late 1990s.

For the real deal in ornate architecture, head for La Sagrada Família (Holy Family Cathedral), Antoni Gaudi’s astonishing exercise in Gothic surrealism — and Barcelona’s most famous landmark. The foundation stone was set 1882, yet construction continues to this day. Since most of the plans for the cathedral were destroyed in the Spanish Civil War, the craftsmen who are completing the work are pretty much guessing as to Gaudi’s vision. Although you can take an elevator to some of the higher reaches, I suggest you climb the stairs if you are able. There are plenty of cutouts from which you can view the city and the construction below. As the spire narrows, so does the diameter of the circular stairway, and if the steps don’t take your breath away, the view certainly will.

For a relaxing afternoon, spend some time in Parc Güell, where you can see more of Gaudi’s art and architecture. For the kids, as well as for a spectacular view of the city and sea, take the Blue Tram to Tibidabo, an amusement park on top of a hill overlooking the city. Check the operating hours first (I learned this the hard way!). Montjuic, a seaside hill overlooking Port Vell, is home to the 1992 Olympic Stadium, several museums and a hilltop fort that protected the city from unfriendly ships in days gone by.

Barcelona has literally too many museums to mention, but if you would like a list or a recommendation, e-mail me or surf over to the Tripso Forums and ask one of our professional travel planners.

What to eat

There are plenty of restaurants in Barcelona, but one of my favorites is Escriba Xiringuito, which looks out over the beach. The wait for an outside table is worth it — just order an aperitif and hang with the locals until one opens up. The tapas are fantastic and include fried vegetable morsels, croquettes, and sardines. In my opinion, Escriba’s claim to fame is the desserts: The pastries are some of the best I have ever eaten.

I am a firm believer in dining where the locals dine, and the people of Barcelona do not disappoint me. Folquer, a small and intimate place with a big local clientele, is another of my favorites. While it does offer some very chic dishes, it is their traditional Catalan fare, such as scrambled eggs and mushrooms, that sets this restaurant apart. The menu is prix fixe and is very reasonable.

Botafumeiro is a Barcelona institution noted for its fine seafood and fantastic oysters. But like any noted restaurant, it comes with a price, so save it for a special night on the town. The menu is huge and has offerings other than fish. Such a fine seafood restaurant deserves to be on the Mediterranean, but alas, this one is located in the city, on a busy street.

Where to stay

Eurostars Grand Marina has a location worthy of its 5-star rating: It sits at the end of a pier extending out into the Mediterranean at Port Vell. While not inexpensive at $350 a night, it is a good value because the amenities and atmosphere are so superior. The rooms are very modern with hardwood floors and sharp angles. The views from most rooms are spectacular, and the hotel is very convenient to La Rambla, Montjuic, and the waterfront. A cable car stops at the front entrance, or you can take a nice walk to shops and restaurants.

The hotel works equally well for business and leisure travelers. The service is impeccable, and the food at the restaurant Aire de Mar, which seats 120, represents the best dishes of Mediterranean cuisine. The only disappointment is the hotel’s small rooftop pool, which is crowded in summer and typically closed in winter.

Easier on the wallet is the Hotel H10 Catalunya Plaza, on Placa Catalunya. This small hotel has all the amenities you could want, including room service, breakfast buffets and quaint balconies for people watching. It is conveniently located, and the average price for a room is approximately $175 per night.

Just as “Fool on the Hill” and “When I’m Sixty-Four” were both B-side tunes that became No. 1 hits for the Fab Four, Barcelona is an often-overlooked city that will fast become a favorite with anyone who strolls her streets. So take a walk on the flip side. Barcelona might just go to the top of your chart.

Kid Picks: 5 Top Vacation Spots

Way back in September, my editor asked me for a schedule of columns through the end of the year. This sort of advance planning doesn’t really suit me. I can barely plan for tomorrow much less for the next three months. Why should I do something today that I could just as easily do tomorrow? Well, tomorrow has arrived, and three months ago I promised my editor a column on “In Places for Kids.”

But what’s in and what’s out?

I am a travel professional, so I have a wealth of resources at my fingertips: hotel reports, resort and cruise reports, operating reports from my agencies, and consultants’ comments. I also have the ability to survey almost a thousand professional agents on the Tripso Forums. I started to do my homework, but something just wasn’t right.

Although I have been accused many times of acting like a kid, reality says that I am not a kid. What the heck do I know about the “in” destinations for kids, anyhow? So for this week’s column, I deferred to the true experts — Miss Perdue’s third-grade class at Central Elementary School in Edgewater, Maryland. A couple of second- and fourth-graders snuck in, too.

I posed a simple question: “If you could go anywhere in the world, where would it be and why?” Now I offer you the Top 5 Destinations for Kids, by Kids:

Number 5: Madagascar (with thanks, no doubt, to Walt Disney Pictures)

“I want to go to Madagascar because it sounds cool and I think it would be very fun to go there. I really want to go there someday. I think the little animals are really funny.” — Madison, Third Grade

“I want to go there because it has lots of plants. Also, because there are a lot of beaches.” — Elizabeth, Third Grade

Number 5: China (yes, it was a tie for fifth place)

“China, because I can learn a new language, meet new people, and eat lots of China foods. I can have lots of new friends.” — Mariah, Third Grade

“I want to go to China because I want to see if they have different money and I want to find out what language they speak. Also, I want to go because I want to see what kind of food they eat.” — Glen, Third Grade

Number 4: Italy (grown-up surveys support this “in” choice)

“Because, at my house we have a lot of things about Italy. My mom’s mom’s cousin has a house there. My parents talk about going a lot. So I think I am going in one or two years. My parents, together, have mostly gone there about 19-25 times!” — Madeline, Third Grade

Number 3: Jamaica (another perennial favorite)

“I want to go to Jamaica because I love tropical places with fruit and warm air. I also want to go to Jamaica because there are lovely beaches and chilly pools. They have fancy hotels too! Jamaica serves fancy food just like Hawaii. In Jamaica, people set up shops and you can buy tropical clothing and jewelry!!!” — Julia, Second Grade

“I would go to Jamaica because it doesn’t have winter and you could always go to the beach. Also, you can play in the sand anytime.” — Kaylin, Third Grade

Number 2: Kenya (adventure travel is on the upswing across the board)

“I would like to go to Kenya because Kenya has beautiful culture and land. Also, Kenya has safaris and I could see all the animals. I also would want to meet the people and learn about them.” — Justin, Fourth Grade

“I would travel to Kenya because there is lots of good animals to hunt.” — David, Fourth Grade

“I would want to go there because we learned a lot about it in Fourth Grade. Also, I have a pen pal there and would like to meet her. The last reason I would like to go to Kenya is because I want to learn more about the culture.” — Hannah, Fourth Grade

Number 1: Hawaii (again, the kids are right on target with the grown-ups)

“I would like to travel to Hawaii because it has nice beaches, pools, and nice people. Also, it has pretty flowers, hotel rooms, and clear blue oceans. That is why I want to go to Hawaii.” — Molly, Third Grade

“I want to go there because my friends live there and it’s hot. Also, because it sounds cool. You can surf and swim.” - Caraline, Third Grade

“I would go there because their hotels are good and I like tropical places. Also, I like seeing the volcanoes and you can go whale watching. It reminds me of the rain forests.” — Michael, Third Grade

“Honolulu, Hawaii, because it is fun. I have never been there before. I think it will be interesting. I think that it is really cool. I would like to learn their language. I want to be like them.” — Griffin, Third Grade

It is interesting that these future world travelers picked destinations that are definitely popular but not heavily promoted. I can’t remember the last time I saw a commercial for Kenya or Italy. I was also impressed by the reasons these kids gave for wanting to see the world and experience other cultures. Unlike some pundits, I do not see our educational system letting us down, and I offer a hearty thanks to Miss Perdue and her principal, Mr. Ferretti, for that.

The other destinations mentioned are equally worthy of a visit, and I want to give some kudos to the children who came up with these as well:

* West Virginia (Anna, Third Grade)

* The Bahamas (Andrew, Third Grade)

* Boston (Brandi, Third Grade)

* Antarctica (Zach, Third Grade-and a dream of mine as well)

* Egypt (Khorey, Third Grade)

* New York (Sarah, Second Grade)

* England (Forrest, Third Grade)

* Australia (Amanda, Third Grade)

* The Amazon Rain Forest (Emma, Fourth Grade)

* New Jersey (Katie, Third Grade)

* Texas (Jessica, Third Grade)

* New Hampshire (Mitchell, Third Grade)

So parents, take note: These 8 and 9-year-olds are putting a lot more thought into travel than I ever did as a kid — and probably even as an adult! And, they are picking their favorite destinations for the right reasons.

From what other experts tell me, Italy will be hot for 2006, and so will Hawaii. Adventure travel is climbing incredibly, too, so think Costa Rica and, yes, Kenya, though probably not Madagascar (sorry kids) unless you are looking for a real adventure.

Thanks, kids, for your time and happy travels to you all.

Feeling Hon Kong's Energy

Hong Kong is probably the most energetic city in the world. It’s got the bright lights of Vegas, the hustle of New York, the swank of Rodeo Drive and the fantasy power of Disney World all rolled into one vibrant city. It is the gateway to China, and was recently returned to China after a long history as a European trading center and British crown colony.

While a lot of Hong Kong’s historical past has been destroyed by unprecedented modernization, the city has not lost its essential character. Crowded, exuberant, busy and relentlessly enterprising, it is a destination to absorb rather than explore. On my first visit to Hong Kong, I found it has a curious effect on Western travelers: The longer you are away, the stronger the call to return.

What to see

The city is divided into two main sections — Hong Kong Island and Kowloon, which is attached to mainland China. Between them lies beautiful Victoria Harbor, one of the busiest harbors in the world.

A trip to Hong Kong is simply not complete without a trip up Victoria Peak, or simply “The Peak,” on Hong Kong Island. Views from the top are nothing less than spectacular and are equally breathtaking day or night. A ride up in a taxi offers an interesting peek into living on Hong Kong, and the century-old Peak Tram is a relaxing way to get back down. While there isn’t much to do up on The Peak, there are a few tourist shops and one or two very decent restaurants.

The Po Lin Monastery on Lantau Island is worth a look, as it is home to “Asia’s largest seated outdoor Buddha statue” (not to be confused with any other position or location). After climbing the steps, you’ll have breathtaking views of the mountains climbing from the sea. The Buddha itself is larger than life, and the monastery affords a sharp look at life as a Buddhist monk.

A short drive from the monastery takes you to an old fishing village called Tai O, a great place to see old China in action. While I expected a quaint fishing village, this was a bustling mini-city with small outboard motorboats darting among the houses and stores, which are built on stilts. But aside from some modern conveniences, life here is as it was years ago. There are villagers peddling their wares (usually fish) on the streets, and mothers maintaining homes for their families.

At one time, Hong Kong was one of the best places to go for first-rate merchandise at bargain prices. Unfortunately, West has met East and the bargains are not so great any longer. Still, the emphasis on shopping in Hong Kong is incredible — it is a hobby there. Electronics are still well-priced, but stick to the larger stores as many of the independent shops in Kowloon, especially on Nathan Road, and are run by triads-China’s age-old mafia.

Shopping plazas are everywhere in Hong Kong. Nathan Road in Kowloon, often the first stop for shoppers, offers bargain goods, souvenirs and luxury items. Causeway Bay, on Hong Kong Island, has more upscale brands and foreign imports.

But for a unique shopping experience, you must sample the markets. Be sure to bring your bargaining skills. My son was able to negotiate jade stones for his entire third-grade class in the Jade Market, which is located at the junction of Kansu and Reclamation streets. The market offers loose jade as well as ornately carved sculptures. The Temple Street Night Market kicks into life in the late evening and offers table after table of cheap clothing, pirated CDs and video games, food stalls, and little trinkets. On the south side of Hong Kong Island is Stanley Market. This, the most popular market with tourists, offers all the souvenirs you can handle along with several very good antique shops. Stanley is also a great area to explore; it has several temples, and many good restaurants and pubs.

What to eat

There is no shortage of restaurants in Hong Kong. You’ll find everything from the generic Hard Rock Cafe to Jimmy’s Kitchen, an 80-year-old expatriate favorite in Kowloon. Hong Kong’s biggest tourist trap (and a must-see for the first-time visitor) is the famous floating Jumbo Restaurant. The Chinese themes are overdone, the food is overrated and not terribly authentic, and yet the experience really is worth the all the nonsense.

One of the best restaurants is Felix, which sits on the top floor of the Peninsula Hotel. Expect to pay a lot for a spectacular dinner offering some equally spectacular views of Hong Kong. Make a later reservation so you can take in the beauty of Hong Kong all lit up at night. Or simply hang out at the bar. If you happen to be of the male persuasion, check out the men’s room. Let’s just say I had never experienced a clear urinal with a view before!

For trendy, hip and popular, head to Hong Kong Island and the district called Lan Kwai Fong. The areas called Soho (“South of Hollywood Road”) and Noho (“North of Hollywood Road”) have a trendy mix of restaurants and cafes and are very popular with the expatriate community.

A short stroll, or stumble, from Soho or Noho is Hong Kong’s version of a red light district: Wanchai. The area is filled with nightclubs, strip clubs, pubs and pick-up joints. Many of these, such as Joe Banana’s, still have a dress code; call ahead to ask. And if you have visions of James Bond ordering his martini in the speakeasy called Bottoms Up (it does exist), then you’d better e-mail me for the details — it’s not pretty!

Where to stay

Purists will say that the only place to stay in Hong Kong is the Peninsula Hotel, but I would be inclined to look to the Intercontinental (formerly the Regent), across the street. Perched on the edge of Victoria Harbor overlooking Hong Kong Island, the hotel occupies probably the finest piece of real estate in the city. It also has great dining, a wonderful bar, and a beautiful infinity pool with separate temperature-controlled chambers all overlooking the bustling harbor three stories below.

Some oddities

The Hong Kong Science Museum on Kowloon is one of the best science museums I have ever seen. It covers everything from mathematics and meteorology to food science and occupational safety. It also has a huge and interesting section on sexuality, though I found it odd that there was not a single mention of AIDS in the exhibit.

When navigating around Hong Kong, you need to watch your step. Not only does the country not require ramps for accessibility, Buddhists consider them bad luck. They believe bad spirits cannot climb steps but they can come up a ramp, so every building will have some small step at the entrances (go ahead, check — I dare you to find one that doesn’t).

You may be in a James Bond mood but, sadly, there aren’t a lot of rickshaws around to shuttle you across town. As a matter of fact, there are only four and they are tourist attractions at the Star Ferry dock on Hong Kong Island — but again, worth the price for the experience.

There are plenty of side trips and sightseeing tours to take — too many to mention, but talk to your hotel’s concierge; he will steer you to something interesting. Pay a few extra bucks and see if the hotel can take you to or from the airport — I did and was greeted by a vintage Rolls Royce.

Finally, since the gents got their men’s room tip, I’ll offer the same to the ladies: Public restrooms for women in Hong Kong apparently have urinal-like devices in the floors and not a lot of privacy. While waiting for a friend to emerge, I watched many Westerners coming out with the same confused look on their faces!

If you have some time and are looking for a memorable trip, head to Hong Kong. The flight is a bit long, but the memories will have you coming back for more.

For more information, check out the Web site of the Hong Kong Tourism Board.

Galloping Grandparents

Something has been creeping over the travel industry in the last three years. Like a fog rolling over the moors of England, it goes unnoticed until you are in its midst. Rising prices? Nope. Falling prices? Nope. The next time you are on a trip, check out the crowd and you’ll see what I mean. While the traditional family still travels together, now they’re bringing Grandmom and Grandpop — or are Grandmom and Grandpop bringing the family?

Intergenerational travel has become a huge market for the travel industry as the baby boomers age. Older travelers are no longer content to take bus tours with the blue-haired crowd or hire dancing companions on upscale cruises. They want to explore new destinations, to have active vacations, to experience some adventure — and they want to bring the extended family.

Grandtravel, a Washington, D.C., travel supplier, saw the future 20 years ago, and they’ve been organizing trips for grandparents and grandchildren ever since. Founder Helena Koenig says that today’s seniors are more interested in leaving a legacy than an inheritance.

“Grandparents want to make their money talk,” Koenig says. “They want their grandchildren to inherit memories. What good does money do once you are gone? But travel — travel is unforgettable.”

The numbers bear her out. According to the Travel Industry Association of America (TIA), a full 30 percent of traveling grannies have taken at least one trip with a grandchild. Even more startling (at least to me) was a study by industry consultants Yesawich, Pepperdine, Brown & Russell that showed almost 60 percent of kids ages 6-17 would really like to vacation with their grandparents.

While Grandtravel is definitely a once-in-a-lifetime experience with tours to destinations like Kenya, Greece and Russia, the experience does not come cheap. Most tours (which typically include meals and the most deluxe of accommodations) run from $5,000 per person. However, if you are looking for an amazing experience — look no farther.

Should your budget be slightly (or considerably) smaller, there are plenty of other options. Elderhostel, which has long provided outstanding educational travel experiences for seniors 55 and older, now offers many intergenerational tours to domestic and international locations through its Elderhostel Intergenerational Programs. The programs are designed to allow adults (grandparents, parents, aunts, uncles, etc.) to participate in a learning experience with their younger relatives and extended families. As Elderhostel puts it, “Sharing new ideas, challenges, and experiences is rewarding in every season of life.”

The Grandtravel and Elderhostel programs are specially designed for intergenerational sets of clients, but don’t write off more traditional cruises and escorted tours. They can work for intergenerational families, as well. Norwegian Cruise Line, for example, now offers family suites with two or more bedrooms, a spacious balcony and plenty of room to accommodate everyone’s privacy. And Tauck World Discovery, a well-respected escorted-tour operator, has a spectacular line of 11 intergenerational tours called Tauck Bridges, offering such destinations as Europe, the Galapagos, Alaska, Hawaii and the jungles of Costa Rica.

There is a world out there to explore, and today’s seniors are ready to explore it — alone, and with their families. Talk to any financial analyst and you’ll find that we are in the midst of the largest generational transfer of wealth in history. There is more expendable income today than ever before, and travel is one of the top lures for that money.

Money plus time will always equal an unforgettable travel experience. So, Grandpa, go ahead, put down that deposit on the retirement community, but don’t make the first payment — not yet!

When Mother Nature Strikes

As Dorothy was walking the Yellow Brick Road, she was worried about lions and tigers and bears (Oh, my!). She was a good traveler: She knew she wasn’t in Kansas anymore (a tornado had swept her to Oz), yet she made her way, anyway.

Today’s travelers have their own concerns: hurricanes, tsunamis and earthquakes. It’s true: Mother Nature can be a mean old broad, and she may try to ruin your trip. But take your cue from Dorothy: Face reality and soldier on. It doesn’t hurt to plan ahead, too.

When disaster strikes, your travel supplier probably doesn’t owe you a cent. Yes, you heard that right. Hurricanes, tornadoes, tsunamis, earthquakes — maybe even avian flu — are all considered to be acts of God (or, in common contract language: the result of force majeure). Airlines, cruise lines, hotels, packaged tour suppliers and your travel agent have no control over Mother Nature so, in the eyes of the law, they are not liable for losses you incur when natural disasters strike.

That said, most travel suppliers will go out of their way to make sure you are happy, and most will waive any re-accommodation fees. It is all in the fine print that you probably didn’t read - the same kind of fine print that you accept when you book online.

You need some kind of insurance. In a previous column, I discussed two types of insurance. The first, travel insurance, will protect your investment by paying all out-of-pocket expenses attributable to acts of God, medical problems, insolvency, and many other unexpected events. Travel insurance is underwritten by a real, live insurance company such as Access America; the premium is typically calculated as a percentage of the trip cost.

Some packaged tour operators offer a second kind of insurance called a trip cancellation waiver. (Some cruise lines also offer these waivers, but airlines never do.) Trip cancellation waivers are not really insurance at all. Though they protect your vacation, they do not necessarily protect your dollars. Under the terms of most trip cancellation waivers, you can cancel your trip at any time before departure for any reason, no questions asked. Typically, you will then receive a voucher for the cost of your trip (less a deductible), redeemable within one year with the same travel supplier. Trip cancellation waivers are usually sold at a flat fee.

Trip insurance is a good idea. Just be sure you understand what you are buying. If you’re not sure, ask your travel agent or your insurance agent to help you.

If natural disaster is a possibility, you need professional travel help. Your hometown travel agent is probably your best resource. Travel agents usually don’t charge a fee for planning a vacation, and their firsthand knowledge is invaluable. As Hurricane Wilma was pounding the Yucatán, more than 100 professional travel agents were attending the Cancun Travel Mart. You can’t get any more firsthand than that! To find a local agent, check with the American Society of Travel Agents.

There are also many Web sites you can check when a disaster interrupts normal travel. As Wilma struck Cancun and subsequently south Florida, Tripso.com was one of only a few Web sites with up-to-the-minute information on damage to resorts, airports and infrastructure. The Tripso forums had detailed reports from hotels, travel suppliers and travel agents on site, including photographs of the storm and its aftermath. Tripso was a trusted source not only for the traveling public and for other media outlets, but also for the nearly 300 professional travel agents who use the forums regularly.

Weather, at least, is somewhat predictable (though earthquakes and tsunamis are not). If you are planning a trip to the Caribbean between June and November, you will be traveling in hurricane season. This is something you need to know.

You should also seek out trustworthy information on past storms and the damage they may have left behind. Since tourism is critical to the economies of much of south Florida, the Caribbean and Mexico, you can be sure that the public relations departments at the local hotels are forecasting clear skies and strong margaritas. Be careful, because that may be all you get. And don’t stop at hotels. While your resort may be standing, you may not be able to dine in that outstanding restaurant you heard about in South Beach or visit that ruin in Tulum. So check out all the must-sees on your list.

If you are traveling immediately following a Mother Nature event, you may need some other types of information, too. Will you need a malaria shot? A portable water purifier? Ruby slippers? Do your homework and you won’t get caught fighting the Wicked Witch of the West.

As a kid, I remember the ads that said, “You can’t fool Mother Nature,” but as a relatively savvy traveler today, I am pretty sure I don’t want to fight her either. A good lesson in planning comes from Karl and Nancy Behringer of Arnold, Md. In February 2005, they began to plan a dream vacation to Mexico’s Riviera Maya to celebrate their 25th wedding anniversary (and perhaps to celebrate their recent status as empty nesters). Unfortunately, a wicked storm named Emily had other plans for them. But Karl and Nancy had purchased a trip cancellation waiver from Apple Vacations and were able to reschedule their trip for November 18.

Then along came Hurricane Wilma. Armed with the trip cancellation waiver yet again, the Behringers made another phone call to their beleaguered travel agent (that’s me). Now, Karl and Nancy will celebrate their 26th anniversary in June. (I hope! Did I mention that hurricane season starts in June?)

Good planning — and knowing the realities of traveling with Mother Nature — saved the Behringers’ vacation. Heed these tips and your vacation can be saved as well.

Have Disability, WIll Travel

In my last column, I handed out some tips for the tushie-challenged, a weighty problem to be sure, but not so difficult as traveling with some other physical disabilities.

Just ask Angela Corrieri, president of Mobile Digital Systems, Inc. Angela is a wheelchair-confined executive, though I hesitate to use the word “confined” in relation to such a bundle of energy. Certainly, Angela’s disability hasn’t hindered her from running a successful security firm manufacturing in-car surveillance systems for law enforcement. With offices on both coasts, Angela has enough gold in her frequent-flier cache to rival that won by Michael Phelps at the Olympics. She’s an expert on traveling with a disability.

“Planning is the key,” Angela says. “Before you head out, make some contacts. A qualified travel agent can be a big help. Another great resource is the Society for Accessible Travel & Hospitality (SATH), a national organization for travelers with disabilities.”

Getting there

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Automobile or van. If you are planning a road trip, you will want to map your route with good rest stops in mind. Most interstate highways have rest stops with accessible facilities every 40 miles or so.
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Airplane. Know that when you are on an airplane, you are pretty much expected to stay in your seat, with your seat belt fastened. You might get some help getting to the bathroom, but you can’t count on it, so you have to be self-reliant. Some planes have wheelchairs on board that you can use, but the bathrooms are tiny, and the wheelchair won’t fit inside. Angela’s advice: Go before you board.
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If you plan to bring a service animal or an assistive device on board, check with the airline first; there may be charges or restrictions. If you will need other assistance on the plane, notify airline personnel when you make the reservation, when you check in, and again when you arrive at the gate. (“Sometimes you really do need to tell them three times,” Angela says. “Folks just aren’t that intuitive about other people’s abilities.”) Also, if you require oxygen, be sure to order it in advance; most carriers will allow only approved cylinders, and there will be a charge. Finally, know that you will most likely board first and deplane last, so plan your connections accordingly.
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Train. Trains in the United States are generally accessible for travelers of all abilities. But before you celebrate finding a “handicapped-accessible” symbol on a transit map, you’d be wise to investigate just how the accessibility is accomplished.
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Bus. Long-haul bus companies like Greyhound are generally solicitous of disabled travelers, and wheelchair-lift buses are sometimes available; just call ahead for information. Most municipalities run public buses that are wheelchair-accessible, but check the routes and schedules in advance-also the fares, which may vary with your level of mobility.
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Taxi. In New York and other large cities, you can generally get an accessible cab immediately during non-rush hours. In other cities, it may take 5-10 minutes, while in the suburbs you’ll have to wait 20-40 minutes for the cab to arrive.
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Cruise ship. Cruises can be great for disabled travelers. They require little mobility, are loads of fun, and the food is excellent. Wheelchair-accessible staterooms are slightly larger than standard cabins. Crewmembers will put down ramps so you can get your wheelchair or scooter over thresholds in public areas, but you may still have trouble with bathrooms because of their small size. Talk to the excursion desk about the accessibility of the various ports of call.

Accommodations

It is fairly easy to get an accessible room in the United States, since most hotels are legally required to have accessible accommodations — and to charge the standard rate for them. The official policy of all hotel companies is to reserve accessible rooms for people who need them, but they will let able-bodied travelers use them under certain circumstances, so you should book your room as far in advance as possible.

Other things to consider:

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New York City. Some older hotels do not have accessible rooms at the same rate as other rooms — it’s just a reality, and it will be slow to change.
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Tub or walk-in shower. If you prefer one or the other, tell the agent when you book the room.
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Height of bed. Some beds are the old standard height, but some new ones are 6-12 inches higher, and they may be hard to get into. Ask in advance.
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Extra set of hands. Ask a hotel employee come with you when you check into your room. That way you’ll have help moving furniture, and getting towels and pillows down from hard-to-reach places.

There are special considerations when choosing hotels abroad, like accessible entry to the hotel, the width of doors and hallways, availability of elevators, and access to restaurants or the café. Angela says this is where a travel agent and SATH can really help you.

Finally, if you are headed to the beach, inquire about beach wheelchairs; a lot of ocean communities will provide them at no cost. These chairs have large balloon tires for easier movement over sand, but because the tires have no rims, you will definitely need a push.

Sightseeing

The United States has generally made sightseeing accessible for people with all kinds of disabilities by providing such things as cassettes and headphones, interpreters, and ramps. When traveling overseas, check with the site or the local tourist association for information about special assistance.

Travel planning can be complicated when a disability is involved, but patience and tenacity go far. And most travel suppliers are more than willing to make the necessary accommodations for you. Know what you need, plan in advance, and get help from a travel agent when you need it.

And if you are ever on that US Airways flight from Baltimore to Washington and notice a petite, feisty woman in a wheelchair, give a nod and say hello to Angela. And then get out of the way!

Tips For The Tushie-Challenged

It seems that every day there’s a new study on how fat Americans are becoming. I typically notice these studies as I wolf down my Big Mac, large fries and Coke (yes, I know I am overweight, but I’m not one of those large people who think they can make it all better by ordering a Diet Coke!).

It’s true: As we get older, our bodies tend to get bigger, but the spaces we must fit into somehow get smaller. What’s the overweight traveler to do?

Recently, I sat down with Brandi Chokas, a travel agent with a large travel agency in Phoenix, to discuss what tushie-challenged* travelers can do to make their trips more comfortable. Between us, we tip the scales at … Oh, never mind. Let’s just say we know what we’re talking about. So sit back in your Barcalounger, grab that Whopper and take a look at what we came up with.

Air travel

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Go off-peak. Try to fly off-season or at slow times during the day. If you’re really overweight, there’s a good chance you’ll need a second seat. On a less-than-full plane, you won’t have to pay for it.
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Board early. Pre-boarding is not just for screaming kids and million milers. If you need time to board and stow your stuff, better to board while the plane is still empty: You won’t be thumping people with your hips or blocking the aisle. That’s much better for you — and for your fellow passengers.
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Take the window. If you are overweight, you will do yourself and your seatmates a favor by taking the window seat. If you sit on the aisle, you’ll be in the way of the beverage cart and passers-by, and you’ll make it hard for your seatmates to get to the lavatory. Plus, every time you get up, your tushie will be in the face of the person across the aisle — and they hate that!
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Avoid the exit row. Exit rows tend to be narrower than regular rows, and the armrests tend to be stationary. Cramped seating can cause poor circulation and maybe even a deep vein thrombosis. Opt instead for a seat at the back of the plane. Most people avoid the back rows when they can, so you have a better chance of having a vacant middle seat next to you.
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Suck up. Make friends with the flight attendants before the flight orientation. If you let them know in advance that you’ll need a seat-belt extender, they’ll give you one discreetly; if you don’t, they’re apt to make a big fuss about it during the cabin safety check. Besides, it’s a good thing to have the flight attendants on your side from the start; they’ll treat you better throughout the flight.
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Call for a cart. If you are trying to make a tight connection, ask the flight attendant if she can arrange for a cart to meet you at the gate. Overweight people often have bad backs and bad knees, so the transit between gates can be brutal. As an added bonus, passengers arriving at the gate by cart are almost always allowed to pre-board.

Car rentals

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Go cruisin’. Not on a boat, but in a Chrysler PT Cruiser. This car has the most tummy room on the road and is available at all Thrifty Car Rental and some Alamo locations. You will need to make a special request, and it may cost a bit more, but when the alternative is a Yugo, you’ll find the money is well spent. Other belly-friendly cars are the Ford Taurus and the new Ford 500. Any van will do, but most Dodge cars and trucks will hit the belly wrong. If you cannot find the car you want at the airport, check out the local car dealerships. Many have a thriving rental business and will be more than happy to pick you up at the airport, provided it is relatively nearby.
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BYOE. Your own extender, that is. You cannot assume that the rental agency will have a seat-belt extender for you. They are not required to have one, and Johnny Law is not gonna buy the “I-am-overweight-and-the-seat-belt-doesn’t-fit” excuse. Especially in Texas, outside Dallas — the bastards!
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Talk to your doctor. Being overweight or obese can be a handicap. Ask your doctor if you qualify for a “Handicapped” placard; if you do, take it with you. It will come in handy if your knees or back act up on the road. As an added bonus, handicapped travelers get better parking at many attractions.

Hotels

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Get the right room. Ask for a handicapped-accessible room. They are designed for wheelchairs, but they are excellent for overweight people as well. The toilets are higher off the floor, there are grab rails to assist you, the showers and tubs are wider, and the rooms tend to be a little larger to allow for wheelchair navigation.
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Get the right bed. Most hotels buy firm mattresses, which can aggravate back problems for some overweight guests. If you are one of them, ask for a bed with extra foam on the mattress. If one is not available, ask for as many pillows as the hotel will give you, then make your own little pillow-top.
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Get bubbly. Traveling, especially traveling for business, is no walk in the park. Seek out hotels that have a Jacuzzi, either in the guest room or in the health center. When your back and knees start to feel a little achy, head for the warm water and bubbles.
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Call ahead. Let the hotel know your issues in advance and see what they can do for you. Request a big room close to the elevator, inquire about special-diet offerings in the restaurant - maybe even request a water bed. It’s rare, but some hotels do have water beds and will put them up on request, although usually not for a one-night stay.

General tips

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Bus tours. Like airplanes, buses come in different configurations. Call ahead and let the company know your needs. They may have some tricks to make you more comfortable. For example, when Brandi was in Hawaii recently, the driver of the tour bus noticed that the handicapped seat she was using wasn’t really adequate for her size. While Brandi was enjoying a luau, he returned to the garage and brought a differently configured bus so that she would be more comfortable.
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Expect more difficulty abroad. Few foreign countries cater to overweight travelers. The exception is Italy, whose own citizens tend to carry a little girth themselves; everywhere else, people tend to run smaller. You will want to do a lot of research before booking your trip. Call the hotel and ask the dimensions of the tub and toilet. Call the car company and ask what foreign cars they carry. (Remember, a car built in the United States is a “foreign” car in another country.) Take open-air buses whenever possible; they tend to have better configurations and larger seats. As for restaurants - well, you are on your own!
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The last word. CRUISE! A cruise vacation has everything an overweight person needs. The showers and restrooms are good-sized, and the toilets are high enough. You get excellent meals, and if you speak with the wait staff early on, they can have an armless chair waiting for you every night. Cruise ships also have gyms, pools, exercise classes and Jacuzzis, should the urge to work out come upon you.

Whew! It sounds like a chore just to plan a trip to Detroit — but it doesn’t have to be if you communicate with your travel suppliers. Don’t be ashamed of your weight; you can’t hide it, so just wear it proudly. If you are using a travel agent, print out this column and ask that your preferences be noted in the company’s database. That way, the next time you head off on some trip, your “extra baggage” won’t get in the way of having a good time.

* Disclaimer: The term “tushie” is not in my own vocabulary. It is entirely attributed to the colorful life and language of Brandi Chokas!

A Bucks County Getaway

Bucks County is the kind of place that gives “suburbs” a good name. Nestled along the west bank of the Delaware River just north of Philadelphia, the county is home to more than 600,000 people, many of whom commute to the big city to work. But instead of serving up the usual sprawl-and-mall, Bucks County gives you historic towns, bucolic vistas and interesting museums. It is a weekend visitor’s dream.

The county is perhaps best known for its history. George Washington really did sleep here. In fact, he was headquartered in Bucks County for a frigid three weeks in December 1776, before crossing the Delaware near what is now the small town of Yardley. His subsequent defeat of the Hessian soldiers on the opposite bank, at Trenton, turned the tide of the Revolutionary War. Each year, an intrepid group of passionate re-enactors recreates the event here on Christmas Day.

But that’s not the only historical attraction in Bucks County. In fact, the region has 151 sites on the National Register of Historic Places. Besides a fine collection of houses, farmsteads, inns and covered bridges, the list includes several Quaker meeting houses, a convent, a carpet mill, a particularly bucolic stretch of rural roadway, and a cigar factory.

Quaint bed-and-breakfasts abound on the narrow, hilly, winding (and occasionally treacherous) back roads of the county. Good food is served up almost everywhere, and fine dining can be found in some of the larger towns like New Hope and Doylestown. There are celebrities to look for (Christie Brinkley, Art Garfunkel, Sally Jesse Raphael), bass to catch, local wines to sample - even ghost tours to scare you. In fact, there is so much to do and see in Bucks County that a weekend jaunt can’t do it justice. This weekend, let’s look at central Bucks County and the areas surrounding New Hope and Doylestown.

Where to go

The town of New Hope is a must-see. Lying at the intersection of U.S. Route 202 and state Route 32, right on the Delaware River, it has the charm of a long-settled village well acquainted with historical events. In fact, New Hope contains two National Historic Districts within its boundaries.

Your fist stop should be the visitors center on Mechanic Street. Get a walking map of the town, have a seat on a bench and plan your day. You will find, quite literally, something for everyone in your party, including antique and novelty stores, art galleries, restaurants, nightlife, historical tours, train rides and innumerable boat rides.

Try the mule-drawn barge ride on the Delaware Canal, or take a ride on the vintage New Hope & Ivyland Railroad, which follows the route filmed for the 1914 movie serial “The Perils of Pauline.” Both forms of yesteryear transport are within steps of the visitors center.

Several art shows and festivals are scheduled for New Hope in October, and there will be an antiques show in November. For the gadget guru in your house, be sure to check out the store Toys for Men on South Main Street, which has good inventories of tavern puzzles and model airplanes.

A drive west on Route 202 will take you through Lahaska, where you can see the fine Quaker meetinghouse on Lower York Road. Built in 1768 to accommodate a growing congregation of peace-loving Friends, it found itself serving, eight years later, as a Revolutionary War hospital. A little farther down Route 202 you’ll come upon the town of Holicong. Here, at the intersection of Holicong Road, is Longland, a lovely old farmstead that was, improbably, the childhood home of globetrotting anthropologist Margaret Mead (next stop, Samoa!).

Another five miles takes you to Doylestown, the county seat. Doylestown has many attractions from fine dining and boutiques to historical sites and a major art museum Because of its central location, Doylestown is a perfect place to explore either as your home base, or on a day trip from another base in Bucks County.

For the art lover, the must-see attraction is the James A. Michener Art Museum. The Pulitzer Prize-winning author of “Poland” and “Hawaii” was raised in Doylestown and was a major donor to the museum that bears his name. The collection features 20th-century American art and sculpture, with an emphasis on Pennsylvania Impressionists and the cultural heritage of Bucks County.

Another fascinating museum is the Mercer Museum. This seven-story museum was built by Henry Chapman Mercer with the assistance of only eight laborers and a horse. Keep that thought in mind as you tour. The museum features what can be best described as tools and knickknacks from early America, including 3,000 woodworking tools, numerous Quaker hats and britches, several speaking trumpets, and a Conestoga wagon. You could spend hours here contemplating the ingenuity and hard work that folks needed before the Industrial Revolution.

Mercer also built Doylestown’s Fonthill Museum; in fact, it was his home until his death in 1930. A famous tile maker and a leader of the American Arts and Crafts movement, Mercer lavished attention on the building, which has 44 rooms, 18 fireplaces, 32 stairwells, and more than 200 windows. (Mercer called it his “concrete castle for the New World.”) Almost every interior surface is decorated with handcrafted tile from Mercer’s factory, the Moravian Pottery and Tile Works. The museum also displays more than 900 prints and objects from Mercer’s own very interesting collection.

When you are all cultured out, stroll along Doylestown’s Main Street and visit some of its unusual shops, including Cyborg One, which sells comic books and anime, and the Dragon’s Den of Antiques, a co-op that spreads its wares over 4,000 square feet of space. After shopping, I suggest you just get lost. Take a drive around town without a map or agenda and admire the Victorian homes and the tree-lined streets. Don’t worry about finding your way back — Doylestown is one of the friendliest towns in America and everyone will be willing to point you in the right direction.

What to eat

With so many smaller pubs and restaurants to enjoy, choosing a few is difficult. Having lived in Bucks County for many years, I can recommend these fabulous old-timers. These are places you will remember for a long time.

Named after stage and screen semi-legend Odette Mytril Logan, Odette’s has been a New Hope landmark since it first opened as a tavern in 1794. It is a first-class French restaurant with a wonderful piano bar perched right on the Delaware River. The atmosphere is decidedly romantic. Reservations and proper attire are in order. (South River Road, New Hope; 215-862-2432)

For a taste of some more local flavor, don those jeans and t-shirts and head to the Eagle Diner. Diners don’t usually make a “must-eat” list, but this one is different (you won’t find the Eagle in a tourist brochure, either, so you’ll just have to trust me on this one.) The bread is always freshly baked, the salad bar is very good, and there is a full bar for drinks. Children are welcome, and the prices average $6 and $10 for lunch and dinner, respectively. In true diner tradition, the Eagle is open 24 hours a day. (Route 202, New Hope; 215-862-5575)

In Doylestown, you can get fabulous food — breakfast, lunch or dinner — at B. Maxwell’s Restaurant and Victorian Pub. (37 North Main Street, Doylestown; 215-348-1027)

If you are looking for some Oriental flavor, Chong’s Garden in Doylestown will answer the craving. The restaurant features both Cantonese and Hunan dishes, and all the food is MSG-free. The lunches, which are particularly good, attract many locals and a big legal crowd from the nearby courthouse. (22 North Main Street, Doylestown; 215-345-9444)

For other dining spots, don’t hesitate to ask a local. Good eating is appreciated in Bucks County, and folks keep good tabs on the new and the trendy.

Where to stay

For the bed-and-breakfast crowd, I recommend Porches on the Towpath. As the name suggests, this quaint B&B is situated right on the towpath for the Delaware Canal, just opposite the New Hope & Ivyland train station (don’t worry, that steam locomotive runs only during the day!). The inn was formerly the home of “Pop” and Ethel Reading, who ran a sandwich shop out of the house in the 1930s with the “help” of their five children. Some of the children’s “artwork” still “enhances” several walls. The porches are wide and inviting. No wi-fi connection here, but then again, who would want one? (20 Fisher’s Alley, New Hope; 215-862-3277)

If you absolutely must have that Internet access, head to The Golden Plough Inn. This full-featured luxury inn is located between New Hope and Doylestown in Peddler’s Village, a shopping mecca in the town of Lahaska. Graciously appointed rooms welcome weary shoppers and children alike. Private baths, refrigerators, cable TV and complimentary champagne are standard. For a winter’s night, request a room with a fireplace — it doesn’t get any cozier than that. (Intersection of Route 202 and state Route 263, Lahaska; 215-794-4004)

But my advice is to leave the laptop in the trunk and the Palm Pilot in the glove box. Let Bucks County lead you around. Drive without a plan. Smell the countryside. Take yourself back to a slower, more peaceful time. Fall is particularly beautiful in Bucks County as the trees change over the banks of the Delaware, but make your plans now. The secret of Bucks County is out!

I Agreed To WHAT?

I just bought one of those new 42-inch plasma TVs. I first saw one five years ago at Harrod’s in London, going for a mere 25,000 pounds. But now they can be had for under $4,000, so I scooped one up. I even bought the extended warranty.

Which made me wonder: What kind of warranty do you get when you purchase travel online?

The answer is: None whatsoever.

In fact, when you purchase travel online, you’re not guaranteed that you will get what you pay for, or that the price you paid will be the price you pay in the long run. Your hotel room, plane ticket, or rental car may be subject to any number of surcharges, rate changes or unannounced restrictions, and you can’t do much about it — because you’ve agreed to them all in advance. What? (Or, as the chat-room crowd says, WTF?)

It’s all in the Terms of Service (TOS), End-User License Agreement (EULA), and Terms and Conditions — those fine-print disclaimers that appear in pop-up windows or at the bottom of a booking screen. All are basically the online provider’s rules for using its software and websites.

Typically, there is an obscure link that makes the terms and conditions available for review; your use of the website constitutes acceptance of those terms. We have one for Tripso, and another for the Tripso Forums (this one dictates acceptable behavior). It should be no surprise that online travel sellers have a similar document.

What may come as a surprise is that when you agree to purchase travel online, you essentially give up all rights should something go wrong. Let’s look at the Terms and Conditions of Orbitz — one of the largest online travel sellers. The link to their Terms and Conditions is at the bottom of the home page. Really small letters. I’m talking tiny. By using their site, you agree to the following (this is only several small sections of the agreement, and the emphasis is mine):

Any aspect of the Site may be changed, supplemented, deleted, updated, discontinued, suspended, or modified at any time, and without prior notice to you. However, we make no commitment to update the information contained on this Site. You agree that Orbitz shall not be liable to you for any delay or other damages that might result from such modification, suspension, or discontinuance. … The Content is intended for information purposes only. Although we exercise reasonable efforts to ensure their quality and accuracy, there might be errors, or the information provided may not be complete, current, or applicable to your particular situation. Further, information provided regarding the service, amenities, products, etc. have been provided to us by the vendor. We assume no liability or responsibility for any errors or omissions. You are responsible for evaluating the accuracy, completeness, and usefulness of any opinion, advice, or other content available through the Site or obtained from a linked site. …

Here’s the part about the warranty - or rather, the lack of one.

Orbitz and its Providers make no warranty of any kind regarding the Site, Content, Products or Services, all of which are provided on an “as is” basis. Orbitz and its Providers expressly disclaim any representation or warranty that the Site will be free from errors, viruses or other harmful components, that communications to or from the Site will be secure and not intercepted, that the Services and other capabilities offered from the Site will be uninterrupted, or that its Content will be accurate, complete or timely. The fact that Orbitz is including or offering any Product or Service on the Site is not an endorsement or a recommendation of the Product or Service. … Orbitz and the Providers’ liability will in no event exceed, in total, the sum of US $250.00.

In other words, you could purchase a ticket on Orbitz and find that the times, dates, airline and even the destination are all wrong. Sure, you will get your money back, but if this misinformation causes you to have to rent a car to drive from point A to point B, you have just agreed to a $250 cap.

The other travel sites have very similar disclaimers, and I would bet most consumers don’t ever read them.

Do you? Take our poll, and see if you are among the 50 percent of respondents who rarely or never read these things. Sometimes to their regret. Take a look at some of Tripso’ ombudsman columns to see what I mean.

I’m as guilty as anyone — I click the “Accept” button without reading a word. I’m sure that with all the software I’ve purchased, I have somewhere agreed to a stint as Bill Gates’s personal cabana boy.

To be fair, these online travel sites will waive these rules more often than not. After all, like any retailer, they want your business. So more likely than not, they will bend the rules for you to retain your loyalty.

But why chance it? When your trip is important, you should think about calling a real, live travel agent. When you work with a travel agent, he works on your behalf, so there is some implied liability. That’s what “agency” means. When you work with an online travel seller, you act as your own agent, and the liability is placed right back on you.

Real travel agents are knowledgeable and experienced; they know how to prevent the kinds of problems that typically come up, or they can at least work around them. For that reason, they stand by their services. I have owned a travel agency and have been in many others, and I have never seen a disclaimer like the ones you get online.

We live in a world of CYA — and it is unfortunate. But I’ve come to the realization that I probably can’t change it, so I’m going to kick back on my couch and watch the Red Sox kick some butt on my new 42-inch plasma TV. And I think I’ll sip a cold Heineken. Oh, but wait …

By opening this beer you agree that we make no representation that the liquid contained herein is indeed beer, that it is from Holland, or that it contains any alcohol at all. Consumption may or may not get you drunk but, in either case, we are not responsible. If you purchased this beverage at a McDonald’s drive-through, be advised that it may be cold, and you may suffer a wet cooling feeling should you spill it, either by accident or by design.

Nah, we haven’t gone there yet.

Batter up!

9 Tips For Cruise Safety

Most of the bases for cruising have already been covered: We know how to keep your floating vacation afloat, how to find the best ships for singles, how to survive a cruise with Norwalk virus and how to cruise with the kids. But, as recent news stories have warned us, there may be a dark side to cruising for those who are not prepared.

Terry Riley, Ph.D., author of the book Travel Can Be Murder, says, “Your personal safety while traveling is — and always will be — your responsibility.” But just what steps should you take to keep safe on a cruise ship? Follow these nine tips and you will be on your way.

1. Check out the report card. Whenever you get 1,500 or 2,000 or even 5,000 people together in one place, you are bound to share a lot more than a good time (remember the Norwalk-like virus?). Luckily, ships get report cards — just like you did in elementary school.

The best reports come from the Vessel Sanitation Program of the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC), which routinely inspects ships for cleanliness, repair, food preparation and storage, water quality, hygiene, pest management and many other things. Check out your ship’s report card on the CDC website before you book your passage. It will let you know the results of the last inspection and exactly what grade the ship received. It will take you back to fifth grade, believe me.

2. Keep your guard up. It is natural to let your guard down on vacation, especially on a cruise ship. Life is good, the water is warm, the booze is flowing, the food is scrumptious — the ship seems like Paradise Island. You are living large, and that’s precisely when you’re most apt to get into trouble.

You need to be aware of your surroundings on a ship just as you would in a big city. Don’t walk down darkened hallways; keep your distance when tempers flare; don’t accept drinks from strangers. If your gut tells you something is wrong, it probably is. And don’t keep it a secret, either; notify the Purser’s Office the minute you suspect trouble.

3. Use the ship’s safe. Leave the Rolex watch and the Gucci handbag at home — no one is looking and you’re on vacation, so you don’t need to worry about the time. Keep most of your cash and valuables (especially your jewelry, return tickets and passports) in the ship’s safe.

The lightweight safe in your cabin is fine for storing small everyday items like your address book and tip money, but never put anything in it that you can’t afford to lose. Do you know how many of those cabin safes are left locked when passengers disembark at the end of a cruise? Now guess how many crewmembers know the bypass code for opening them.

4. Watch what you eat. If you are lactose intolerant in the United States, you will be lactose intolerant on a ship. If stateside seafood makes you puff up and itch, so will the onboard seafood. With the myriad options for dining on a cruise ship, you can certainly be adventurous. Just don’t be reckless.

Shipboard water is usually pretty good, but you should always insist on bottled water on shore. And make sure it is a sealed bottle (yes, I have seen “bottled” water refilled from the tap on a ship and on a plane).

Know how your food is prepared, too. Is it heavy on the mayo in the hot Caribbean sun? Is the steak served tartare? And if you are served something you don’t like, for heaven’s sake, send it back. On a port call in Ocho Rios, Jamaica, I was served some “almost-still-clucking” chicken — not what I was expecting at a purportedly five-star restaurant! So be aware, and don’t be afraid to ask that your food be prepared the way you like it.

5. Watch the booze. Booze will always compromise your judgment, perception, and behavior. While everyone likes to have a few umbrella drinks aboard ship, don’t let them get out of hand. Why not? Because booze on a boat is the same as booze on land — only you are moving forward at 20 knots and perhaps pitching back and forth in 20-foot seas.

And trust me, it is never a good idea to see if you can lean out over the railing like Kate Winslet in “Titanic.” Nor should you try to walk what you perceive to be a gangplank. Most of today’s ships are equivalent to 10-story buildings … moving forward … with 12-foot propellers underneath. Can you say “Cuisinart”?

6. Watch the gambling. Crooks cruise too, so cash-in your winnings periodically and take them to the ship’s safe; if you win big, ask for an escort. Don’t ever make a scene; it will only draw attention to you and make you a target for crime. For the same reason, be careful about flashing your money outside the casino, too. If you win, congratulations! Just keep the celebration low-key.

7. Watch out for the crew. No, they are not out to get you, but you need to understand that these are folks whose standard of living is most likely lower than yours by a considerable margin. You will likely be perceived as the wealthiest of the wealthy. Most crewmembers are honest and hard working, but don’t give them any opportunity to take advantage of you. Jewelry on the night table — even your loose change or iPod — is but a quick grab for a cabin steward, a maintenance worker, or the kitchen worker who refreshes your fruit plate.

Most ships don’t allow crewmembers to interact with guests outside of their regular duties. The exceptions tend to be the cruise director and the captain’s staff. While you may be tempted by that cute little honey from Serbia named Irena (or that hunk from Hungary), never agree to go to a “crew-only” section of the ship — the invitation may be a set-up to ensure that your cabin is vacant.

8. Land ho! Be careful on your shore excursions. The cruise lines organize the shore trips because they are moneymakers for them; in return, you get some assurance of quality and security. You can save a buck (or many) by going it alone, of course, but beware. Make sure you negotiate any fares and fees upfront. Most cabbies are honest when the cards are on the table, but if you do not agree in advance, the sky will be the limit and you may find yourself in a police station for failure to pay the fare.

If you are not happy — speak up early. Once in St. Lucia, a cabbie took my kids and me into an “ambush” of local vendors — all friends of his. We did not buy anything, and we told the cabbie that if it happened again, we were out of the car and he was out of a fare. The rest of our tour was fabulous.

9. Report anything suspicious. While the crew-to-guest ratio looks pretty low in the brochure, much of the crew actually works behind the scenes and is not permitted any guest interaction; moreover, many may not speak your language. Most of the senior crew will be looking out for guest safety, but they cannot be everywhere at once. As Dr. Riley says: Ultimately, your safety is your own responsibility.

Keep your eyes and ears open. If something looks odd to you, it probably is. Is there a creepy guy hanging outside the teen club? A man who is asking dozens of single ladies to dance? A couple that is fighting in public left and right? Take a walk to the Purser’s Office and let the staff know. They will appreciate it, and you might just head off tomorrow’s top story.

Now that you are rethinking that cruise you just booked, sit back and take a deep breath. This information should not be a vacation-breaker. It’s just common-sense advice taken from Main Street and put on the Lido Deck. According to the U.S. Maritime Administration, which keeps tracks of passengers sailing on cruise ships, 9.4 million people cruised in 2004, so it can’t be all that bad. In fact, cruising is a fabulous experience, and it’s probably a lot safer than crossing your own street.

Just think safe, and it will be smooth sailing all the way.

Confessions of an Electronic Traveler

Sometimes I think that the days of leaving your life behind are a thing of the past, and maybe that’s a bad thing. But, like it or not, today we are more connected than ever. We’ve got e-mail from cruise ships, satellite calls from the Serengeti, cell phones in flight. BlackBerrys, Palms, PDAs, and PIMs — they’re becoming as common as calculators. But what are the really essential electronics for the traveler? And how best to use them?

Cell phones. Perhaps the greatest invention of the last 20 years is the cellular phone. Curiously, as the technology evolves, actual phone-calling is falling to the bottom of its features list. Cell phones now take pictures, send e-mail, fire off instant messages, surf the Web, add and subtract, broadcast radio programs, alert you to the time, and who knows what more.

So, does the average traveler need one?

Absolutely. A cell phone is probably the most essential tool for the road, especially if you learn how to use all the features. If you do a lot of international traveling, look for a “world phone” (quad band), which will operate with most service providers if properly configured. Except for some pretty obscure places, you can be connected worldwide for both incoming and outgoing calls.

If you do not have a world phone, you can probably still use your phone in most industrialized nations. When you arrive at your destination, you can purchase a SIM card to insert into your phone. This will allow all your contacts to come with you. You buy the card from a cell shop, kiosk, or machine in an airport for service on a local carrier, and the calls are then billed to your credit card.

And do spend some time getting to know your phone’s features. I have a tough time with hotel alarm clocks (it’s just a thing), but my cell phone fits the bill all the time. With my Nokia phone, I can also use a headset and listen to radio — not quite as good as the iPod, but it does OK in a pinch.

Music. Nothing will get your trip off to a worse start than a wailing infant in the seat behind you. I understand that kids need to travel, too, and I have traveled many places with my own three kids — all good travelers, but by no means perfect. I understand the challenge, but that doesn’t mean I have to listen to the wailing. My advice is: Pack some tunes.

For $299 you can buy the industry standard — the iPod — and have all your favorite tunes literally at your fingertips. Drown out that darling child’s tantrum, quiet the noise of the city streets, or simply crash on a bed and gather your thoughts. Let your iPod or other digital music player take you away whenever the cacophony of life becomes just too much.

PDA. No, not the type of PDA you dreamed about as a teen, but the Personal Digital Assistant. These devices come in various forms from many manufacturers, but the basic functions are the same. Your PDA should be able to hold all your contacts (serving as a good backup if you lose your phone), as well as your appointment calendar, to-do lists, and more.

Most of the newer PDAs can run special versions of the Microsoft Office family of products, so you can make last-minute changes to that presentation, or work on that novel that is inside each of us. Toss in a few games and you are set for entertainment as well.

Current converters and adapters. If you are traveling outside the United States, you will need one of these — not for your money (that’s a currency converter) but for your gadgets. Many countries are different and there is nothing worse than trying to fit a round peg in a square hole in some foreign hotel. Ask your travel professional about the current (in the electrical sense)situation in your destination country, and then go prepared. Typical converters can be found for under $25 and adapters for under $15. One time in London, when I had forgotten my converter, the nice lady at Boots—a popular British pharmacy and catch all store, was so kind as to sell one to me for 40 pounds. You do the math!

Laptop. Honestly, with a cell phone, iPod, and a PDA, you can leave your laptop at home. If you need some files from home, buy a flash memory card, copy the needed files, and plug it in at an Internet café or hotel business center.

But before you head out the door with a pocketful of gadgets, remember the chargers. Batteries don’t last forever, and if Murphy is right, yours will give out just before you finish something wonderful or important—or worse when that Nicole Kidman look-a-like decides to give her your phone number and you try to put it into your PDA. Also remember that all these gadgets will definitely trigger the dreaded secondary search from security agents should you forget to put them through the X-ray machine at the airport — along with your shoes, belt, watch, coins, knitting needles and other implements of destruction.

But on second thought, the idea of a week away without all these electronic distractions seems awfully alluring. I know a great place in Runaway Bay, Jamaica, with horrible cell-phone service. It’s got a great hammock in the shade overlooking the surf, reggae music playing off in the distance, and some wickedly wild Jamaican-rum-laden Dirty Bananas*. With all that going for it, who cares if you can’t hear me now?

* Or you can email me for the recipe.

Living It Up In The Mayan Riviera

Suggest a Mexican getaway, and most people think of Cancun, a balmy beach resort area manufactured as a tourist destination in the early 1970s. The first hotel broke ground in 1972. Now, 33 years later, Cancun has more than 50,000 hotel beds, hundreds of restaurants, and a couple of mega-malls for the throngs of American sun worshippers who come here to play, sometimes every year.

I say, skip Cancun and head 40 minutes south — to the Riviera Maya, a long stretch of beautiful Caribbean coast on the Yucatán peninsula. The area is lush with coconut palms and jungle, is close to the ancient ruins of Tulum, and has a wonderful laid-back attitude. And while the area has been discovered, it still holds many of the charms of old Mexico.

Where to go

Once a sleepy fishing village, Playa del Carmen has grown over the years, and it remains to be seen how it will evolve. There are several large resorts just south of the town, and the beaches are becoming more crowded. But the town itself is a throwback to a less hectic time and place.

As you stroll through the town, merchants hawk their wares and children frolic in the town square. Don’t be turned off by aggressive merchants. They are just trying to earn a living, and energetic bargaining is a way of life here. On the other hand, Mexican culture is very polite, and a simple “No, gracias” will usually send the shop owners away. If they really bother you, head for the larger stores, where bargaining is less common.

This area of Mexico is known for its silver, Mayan masks, embroidered cotton blouses, hammocks, and other crafts — and, of course, for tequila. Cuban cigars are also available, but remember, you cannot bring them into the United States.

While in town, don’t miss the Xaman-Ha Aviary, a 32-acre park with walking trails that will bring you face to face (sometimes literally) with 60 species of tropical birds, including scarlet macaws, toucans, flamingos, and some very raucous parrots. Great for kids and photographers, especially if you go in late morning or late afternoon, when the birds are most active.

As you head south, be sure to stop at Xcaret Park. This man-made eco-park bills itself as a “theme park,” but there’s a lot of education here, too, including a glimpse of Mayan history and an introduction to the region’s flora and fauna. Swimming with dolphins is popular here, as is the nighttime folklore show — one of the best in Mexico — but for a truly unique experience, swim or snorkel in the two underground rivers. (http://www.xcaret.com)

Another outstanding place to snorkel is at Xel-Ha Park. Its crystal-clear lagoon is home to one of the most beautiful fish in the sea: the parrotfish. Be warned that Xel-Ha has also been discovered by plenty of cruise passengers, whose ships dock nearby. If you can avoid a ship day (typically Tuesdays and Thursdays) you can also avoid the crowds. Don’t bother bringing your usual sunscreen: It’s not allowed because the oils harm the fish. But you can buy an eco-friendly sunscreen as you enter the park. (http://www.xel-ha.com.mx)

Tulum is an ancient city with an impressive fortress, and the it’s only Mayan city built on the coast. When it flourished, between the fifth and 13th centuries, it is believed to have been larger than Seville, Spain. As with most ancient places, the Mexicans show Tulum great respect, and beach clothes are discouraged. Wear shorts and a hat (especially at midday), and be sure to bring lots of film, because the vistas from the promontory are absolutely stunning. Morning is a good time to visit, before the tour buses disgorge their cargo of day-trippers.

What to eat

Food is certainly not in short supply in Mexico. In the town of Playa del Carmen, traditional Mayan food can be found at Yaxche Maya Cuisine, which has both beautiful surroundings and outstanding service. The owners of the restaurant are involved with the local Mayan culture, so there is a good chance that your meal may be an educational experience as well as an epicurean one.

Another favorite restaurant is Media Luna, which is open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, and is the most popular restaurant in the area. The fish is wonderful (this is hearsay, as I do not partake), as are the vegetarian dishes. Speaking from firsthand knowledge, you’d be hard-pressed to find better pasta and salad anywhere in the area.

For die-hard American palates, Playa del Carmen also has a TGI Friday’s and a Señor Frog’s. Same food, different T-shirts.

Where to stay

One of the most beautiful hotels in the area is the Grand Xcaret by Occidental. Tucked away in a jungle, this all-inclusive resort abuts Xcaret Park, and admission to the park is included in your stay. The beach is small and man-made as the shoreline is a bit rocky in this area, but the pools are excellent. Besides, you’ll probably want to head to Playa del Carmen (the locals refer to it simply as “Playa”) for a day or two at its lovely beaches; there is good reef diving there, as well.

The Grand Xcaret’s rooms are spacious, and no matter how busy the resort is, you never feel crowded. Beautiful parrots are perched seemingly at every turn, and a bar and food is never far away. For a special treat, stay in the hotel’s Royal Club, a private section near the beach with a private pool, restaurant and upgraded rooms and suites. The staff is wonderful and will go out of its way to meet your needs. The hotel also has a great kids’ program. (http://grandxcaret.com).

For a unique experience, head a little farther south to the Xpu Ha Palace. While the resort is currently closed due to hurricane damage, it is expected to reopen shortly. This oasis is a part of the Palace Resorts chain in Mexico and is perfect for doing absolutely nothing at all. Hammocks abound for your siesta, food and drink are always at hand, and every room has a whirlpool spa and balcony. To get around, you’ll need to use the resort’s internal transportation system: bicycles.

If you must do something more active than pedaling, you can paddle your way through an estuary (see if you can spot a manatee) or take in a few holes of golf at the hotel’s nearby sister property, the Moon Palace. Snorkeling, kayaking, a catamaran tour, and mangrove and jungle tours are also available. (http://www.xpuha-palace.com).

A couple of cautions.

If you rent a scooter or moped to help you get around, please be careful. They can be very dangerous, especially where the ground is soft, sandy, or gravely. Moreover, the deductible on the insurance is often very high.

It is also not a good idea to rent a car in Mexico. If you are involved in an accident, you can be detained until the damage is fixed, or until you have your day in court.

Those cautions aside, Mexico’s Riviera Maya is one of the most fascinating destinations in the world. Visit while it is still relatively unspoiled and uncrowded, and save me a hammock!